i*5
).,
.
A TOUR
-■?
SOUTH AFRICA,
WITH NOTICES OF
NATAL, MAUEITIUS, MADAGASCAR CEYLON, EGYPT, AND PALESTINE.
Bv J. J. FEEEMAN,
HOME SECRETARY OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY ROCTKTY.
^vthsonJ^
MRR 0 3 1986
LONDON : JOHN SNOW, 35, PATERNOSTER ROW.
1851.
LONDON :
REED AND PARDON, PRINTERS,
PATERNOSTER RCVT.
PEEPACE.
In the Autumn of 1848, I was requested by the Directors of the London Missionary Society to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, with the view of visiting their numerous Missions in South Africa ; and from thence to proceed to the Island of Mauritius, to visit the Missions there ; and particularly to institute in- quiries respecting the Native Christians in Madagascar, and the prospects of that still afflicted country.
Having accomplished these objects, I preferred to take the Overland Route on my way home, instead of returning by the Cape ; and I accordingly proceeded from Port Louis to Ceylon, where I embarked for Suez. Having passed some little time in Egypt, I visited Palestine, and returned from Beyrut to England, by way of Alexandria and Malta.
My Official Report, on the various points of business with which I had been intrusted, as the Society's Deputation, I have presented to the Board of Directors, by whom it is made the basis of conference in appro- priate committees.
But numerous friends, beyond those of my own private circle, have kindly expressed the wish that I would publish some account of my tour, together with a distinct notice of sundry collateral matters that have fallen under my observation. I have, therefore, prepared the following pages for the press.
In doing so, my principal object has been to assist in deepening and extending that interest in Protestant
IV PREFACE.
Missions, and the welfare of the aboriginal races, which is already so earnestly cherished by the Christian and intelligent public. In the prosecution of this aim, I have wished to present as large an amount of informa- tion as I could, regarding the actual state and progress of Missions in South Africa, and more especially of those connected with the London Missionary Society.
The Tour itself could not be accomplished without its fatigue and some inconveniences. But the gratifi- cations attending it have far outweighed these ; — the gratification of witnessing many scenes of permanent moral interest, and of mingling with men of great Christian enterprise and benevolence ; — the gratification of trying, at least, to promote the prosperity and hap- piness of others ; — the gratification of marking the progress of Christian Missions, and their influence in elevating the Native Tribes of Africa. In addition to all this, were the frequent charms of scenery and climate, of novelty and variety ; the new aspects under which to view men and customs, laws and institutions, with innumerable facts relative to Colonies and Colo- nization, and the condition of the Native Tribes, both in their Aboriginal and Transition state.
I kept as ample a journal during my tour as I could; yet I confess, I sometimes found myself too much occupied through the day, and too wearied at its close, to fill the pages as I desired. I have, however, made ample use of it in preparing these pages, and I have thus tried to make my readers feel as though they had been my companions, to go over the ground and witness the scenes I did, to share largely in my pleasures, and to be spared all my inconveniences. This remark will explain the method which I have pursued in the fol- lowing pages.
PREFACE. V
I have not given, first, chapters embracing an out- line of the route, then some chapters on the state of Missions, and the special objects of my visit, and then finally some notices of incidental matter; but I have endeavoured to blend these together. I go over the route, and endeavour to describe what I found in- structive and interesting in it ; I pause from time to time at the Mission Stations, and describe them, and then introduce, wherever it seemed appropriate, notices of whatever I regarded as useful, although incidental and subordinate.
Having given an ample " Table of Contents," I have not deemed it necessary to provide an " Index." But it may facilitate a reference to any particular sub- ject, if I indicate here the principal matters to which the Chapters are respectively devoted : —
The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Chapters are occupied with notices of the Colony, and various Mission Stations and Institutions.
4th and 5th Chapters, British Kaffraria and Madoor's Country,
6th Chapter, History of the Hottentots.
7th ,, Kat River Settlement.
8th ,, Hottentot Grievances.
9th „ Kaffir History.
10th „ Various Towns up to the Orange River. 11th ,, Griquas, and Missions among them, 12th ,, Bechuanas, and Missions among them. 13th ,, British Sovereignty between the Yaal and Orange
Rivers. 14th ,, Basuto Country and French Missions. 15th „ Natal.
16th ,, Mauritius and Madagascar. 17th „ Ceylon, Aden, and Suez. 18th „ Egypt. 19th „ Palestine.
I have much pleasure in acknowledging the kind response of many friends to my Circular ; but in sub-
a 2
VI
PEEFACE.
scribing to the volume, the wish has been repeatedly intimated that the names should not be published. The pages which the list of names would have occupied, I have filled with details of the " Tour."
J. J. F.
4,.DbrGLAs Road, Ki>tgsla>-d, Uth July, 1851.
It may be simply due to the Society and myself to say, that the whole of the expenses connected with the indirect portion of my return home through Egypt and Syria, I have met from my private
resources.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Frontispiece, Philipton, to face Title-page. Map of the "British Sovereignty,"
with small Map of South Africa to face page 1
|
J-LaiiJvt\ J.llS'LlLLLLiUli. ... Hankey Inundation |
55 |
|
A Kaffir and his Wife . |
197 |
|
Newly- discovered Lake |
287 |
|
Mountains in South Africa . |
344 |
|
Cascade in Xatal .... |
348 |
|
Tamatave, Madagascar |
383 |
|
Travelling in Egypt |
431 |
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Arrival at the Cape — Table Bay — Sentiment during my Visit — Political Creed — Illustrations — Convict Question — Moral Feeling of the Colony — General objects of my Mission — Dr. Philip — Union Chapel — Notice of the Colony — Extent, Landed Property — Exports — Cape Town — Seat of Govern- ment— Population — Christian Ministry — Press — Prepara- tion for Travelling — Starting for the Interior ... 1
CHAPTER II.
Swellendam, Dr. Robertson — Dutch Emigrant Boers — Zuurbrak, Vagrancy Law— Magistrate's Report — Missionary Remarks on said Report — Industry of the People — Debts — D. Moodie, Esq. — Continuance or Abandonment of Missionary Institu- tions ? — Opinion of Dr. Philip — Route to Pacaltsdorp — In- stitution there — Public Meeting — George — Cradock Pass — Gate Kamphoor — Horse Car and Native Driving — Dyssels- dorp — Public Meeting — Oudshorn — Mineral Springs — La- bour Question — Cango Caverns — Avontuur, Mr. Hood — Anecdote of a Kaffir 16
CHAPTER III.
A Native Ministry — European aid requisite — Hankey Institution, Inundation — Machpelah — Affecting Anecdote — Tunnel Chart— Fertility, a Thousandfold — Native Capacities — Edu- cation— Maps wanted — Public Meeting — New Chapel, Church-members and Rules of Church-fellowship — Port Elizabeth — Fingoes — Bethelsdorp — Salt Pan — Thomas Pringle — Native Races — Fears and Hopes — Contributions — TJitenhage — Tea Party — Theopolis — Sufferings from War, 1847 — Graham's Town, Chapels — Hottentot Corps of Cape MountedRifl.es — Canteens 49
Till CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Notices of the Country — District of Victoria — Neutral Territory — Makomo — British KafTraria — Fort Beaufort — Umxelo — Fingoes — Attack on Fort Beaufort, Death of Hermanus — Difficulties of Missionaries — Messrs. Read — Birklands — Amatola Mountains — Mr. Calderwood — "Alice" — "Love- dale" — Missions in Kaffirland to be prosecuted — Chumie Mountains — Burn's Hill — Loss of Commissariat — Hottentot Courage — Kaffir Character — "Knapp's Hope" — Irrigation — Agriculture superseding War — Limited Locations — AVar breaks out — -King William's Town — Companions — Mr. Brownlee's Losses, no Compensation — Congregation, Desire of Improvement — Colonel Mackinnon — Mount Coke — State of Kaffirland — Hopes — Suspicions — Jan Tzatzoe — Mr. Ross, Perie — Mr. Birt's Station — Young Men's Class — Agricul- tural Efforts — Class of Native Women — Help from England 83
CHAPTER V.
German Mission Station, Bethel — Madoor's Station, Freemanton — Remedy against Avarice — Treatment of Madoor — Tam- bookies — Kaffir Argument, Quit-rent — Letters from Madoor — Shiloh, Moravian Station — Self-supporting — Land Culti- vated— Attacked in 1847, Major Hogg — Our Allies — Pro- ceed towards the Kat River — Messrs. Read — Letters — Snow Storm — Cold — Night's Accommodation — Roads Difficult — Splendid View — War — Arrival at Philip ton — Mrs. Read . 110
CHAPTER VI.
Rise and Spread of Christianity and Civilization among the Hot- tentots— The Moravian Mission of 1737 — Appeals of Travel- lers on Behalf of the Hottentots — Their Military Enrolment — Missionary Institutions after 1795 — Commissions of Jii- quiry — Circuit Courts — Absence of Law — Compulsory Ser- vice— Personal Violence — British Settlers in Albany, 1820 — Commission of Inquiry, 1822 — The 50th Ordinance, or Magna Charta of the Hottentots, 1828— Kat River Settle- ment, 1829 — Parliamentary Committee, 1835-7 — Conduct of the Hottentots in the Kami- Wars, 1835-46 — Their subse- quent Treatment, and present Condition . . . .131
CHAPTER VH.
Kat River Settlement — Its Origin — Parties Emigrating thither — Enthusiasm — Freedom — Testimonies — Out-stations — Re- ligious Institutions — Church Government — Schools — Press — Visit to Locations — Scenery — Foliage — Tints — Industry of Natives — Native Hospitality — Geology — Man in Lion's
CONTENTS. IX
page Mouth. — Substitute for Bells — Kat River no Failure — Treat- ment— Examination of Schools — Printing — Letter to Depu- tation— Diagrams — Things that are wanting — Scotch Mission — Landscape — Children — Ordination at Tidmanton — Testi- monial of Elders and Deacons — Native Improvement — Letter from Van Rooyen ........ 14G
CHAPTER VIII.
Strike, but hear — Memorial to Sir H. Smith — Hottentots at Bux- ton— Letter from Colonial Secretary — Letter as to Buxton Hottentots — Expulsion of the People — Expulsion of Gona Hottentots — Police Report of Expulsions — The Governor's Commendation — Letter from Mr. C. Brownlee — Letter from the Governor — Letter from Botha to the Governor — Suffer- ings of the Gona Hottentots — Botha's Letter of Expostula- tion— Summary of the Case — Cattle Impounded — Irritation of the People — "We are tired of Irritations" — Excitement at Kat River — Excessive Exactions — Causes of Irritation — People's Appeal for Investigation — Letter from the Govern- ment— Kat River Hottentots 167
CHAPTER IX.
THE KAFFIR HISTORY.
The Kaffir Race — The New Policy introduced by Earl Grey respecting British Intercourse with the Kaffir Race — The Amakosse, or Kaffirs adjacent to the Cape Colony — Their Wars with the Cape Colony — The Kaffir Chief Macomo's Daughter — Influence of British Policy in Kafhrland upon the Interior of South Africa. . . . . . .197
CHAPTER X.
Journey to Cradock — Kaga Mountains — Sir Andries Stocken- strom — Lord Glenelg's System — History of the Colony — True Policy of Great Britain — Cradock Native Congregation — Somerset — Dutch Reformed Church — Milk River — Graaff R,einet — Value of Earms — Rev. Mr. Murray — Journey to Colesberg — Dr. Vanderkemp — An Unexpected Vis-a-vis — Kopjes — Colesberg Town — Congregations — Intemperance — Sagacity of a Dog — Orange River Eerry-Boat Rope broken — Comfortable Prospect — Amiable Wife — Crossing the Stream— Eight-horse Vehicle — Philippolis — Mr. Wright . 214
CHAPTER XI.
Philippolis — Property of the Griquas — Attendance on Sunday- Schools — Education — Public Meeting — Antelopes — Griev- ances— Ramah — Backhouse — Messrs. Oswell and Murray — Corannas — Leading out the Vaal — Lands to be Irrigated —
X . CONTENTS.
PAGE
Surveyor's Report — Crossing the River — Grriqua Town — Waterboer — Schools — Bechuana Women — Geology — Artifi- cial Irrigation — Difficulties — Discouragements — Encourage- ments— Uneasiness as to Lands — Treaties — Alienable and Inalienable Territory — Letter to Earl Grey — Sir Harry Smith to Earl Grey — Remarks on the Letter to Earl Grey — Leav- ing Griqua Toavii . 228
CHAPTER XII.
BECHUANA COUNTRY AND BECHUANA MISSIONS.
Daniel's Kuil — Kuruman Fountain — Rev. R. Moffat — Village- Mission Premises — Gardens — Chapel — Murders — Children stolen — Dangers to the Aborigines — Printing Establishment
— Hamhana — Mission Committee — Translations — Native Teachers — Lay Help — Route to Kolobeng — Motito — Migra- tory Habits — Sitlagole — Superstition — Dress — Desert Country — Matebe — Congregation — Matzilikatze — South African Wars — Wholesale Murder — Mabotsa — The Chief Moselele — Khoodoo — Serpent Worship — Enormous Boa- Constrictor — Kolobeng — Sechele ..... 258
CHAPTER XHL
THE ORANGE RIVER, SOVEREIGNTY.
Explanation of the Name — Extent — History of its Acquisition — Privy Council Report — Colonies, How acquired? — Con- quest, Cession, Occupancy — Attorney- General's Opinion — Opinion reconsidered — Variety of Opinions — Einal Arrange- ment— Power of Legal Fictions — Dancing a Polka — Trans- formations— Annexation — Colotued Races — Bloem Fontein
— Murder by some Bushmen — Commando — Murderers arrested — Capitally punished — Elopement — Punished with Death — Lvnch Law — Execution of Two Men by Court- Martial— thaba Unchu— Moroko— Platb erg— Noble Kloof —Rev. Mr. Giddy— Thaba Bossio 295
CHAPTER XIV.
THE BASUTO COUNTRY, AND FRENCH MISSIONS.
Early Residence of Moshesh — His Early Struggles — Thaba Bos- sio— Polygamy — Character of Moshesh — Humanity of his Tribe — Waterboer — Moshesh's Estimate of Waterboer — Comprehensive Views of Moshesh — His Complaints — Treaties made with him — Governor Maitland — Fidelity of Moshesh — Conduct of Government — Moshesh asks Redress— Forced to sign away his Territory — Visit to Moshesh — Conversation with Moshesh — Intelligence of the People — Difficulties of the Missionary — Appeal of Moshesh to Her Majesty — Letter from Moshesh — Letter to Lord John Russell — Sir H.Smith's
CONTENTS. XI
PAGE
Denial — Extent of Territory Lost — Morija — Feelings of the People — Printing-press — Conversion of Libey— Companions separate — Death of Miss Christie — RobertMoffat — Mokuat- ling — Attack of Corannas — Mission Station — Cannibal Caves — Cannibals watching their Prey — Extirpation of that Horrid Custom — Visit to Bethulia — Carmel — Taking Lions by the Tail — Lion shot and Kid saved — Beersheba — Mr. Rolland — Absence of Children — Cannibalism .... 309
CHAPTER XV.
Journey to TJmpakani, Imparani — Sikonyella — Liebenberg's Vlei — Eland's Pviver — Harrismith — Brick-maker — Lion Skin — Room for Farmers — Horse-sickness — Difficult Ground — Magnificent View — Appearance of the Country — Zoolu Kaffirs — Cascade — Pieter Mauritzburg — Native Population — Farms — Emigrants — Indaleni — Mr. Alison — Civilization — Uysdoorn — Dr. Adams — Character of the Country — D'Urban— Port Natal— The Bar and Bluff— Mr. Holden— Panda — Native Foreigners — American Missions — New Ger- many— Cotton — Sugar — Leave Natal for Cape Town . . 340
CHAPTER XVI.
MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR.
Return to Cape Town — Interview with the Governor — Go- vernor's Defence — Inquiry demanded — Murder — Educa- tion— Arrival in Mauritius — David Ratsarahomba — Chapel in Port Louis — Services — Former Slaves and Indian Coolies — Madagascar — Moka, Mission Station — Malagasy — David Johns Andrianado — Nouvelle Decouverte — Paoly — Plain Wilhelms — New Chapel — Extinct Volcano — Madagascar — Letter from the Queen — Trade with Madagascar — Origin of Recent Dispute with Madagascar — A Humiliating Exhibi- tion— Native Cruelty — Ships to Madagascar — Dr. Taval — Loss to British Government — Roman Catholics in Mauri- tius— Church of England — Other Denominations — Influenza 366
CHAPTER XVII.
CEYLON ADEN SUEZ .
Leave Mauritius — Galle in Ceylon — Native Canoes — Route to Colombo — Colombo — Bazaar — Betel Nut — Produce — Pearls — Treasures of the Deep — Scenery — Wesleyans in Ceylon — Baptist Mission — Dr. M'Vicars — "Wolfendal — Missionary Meeting — Cotton — Lord Torrington — Prison — Sir Anthony Oliphant — "Haddington" — Voyage to Aden — Aden — Vol- canic Appearances of Aden — Population — Sumalfs . .391
Xll . CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER XYIII.
EGYPT.
Arabian Gulf — Passage of the Israelites — Sinai — The Steamer — Suez — Funeral at Suez — Yans for the Desert — Crossing the Desert — Peaching Cairo — Emotions on reaching Cairo — Hotel d' Orient— Pier. Mr. Lieder — Ophthalmia — Turkish Baths — Visit to the Pyramids — Cheops — Second Pyramid — A Xight in a Tomb — Sakhara — Memphis — Torah — Beza- teen — Coptic Church — Greek Church — English Episcopal Service — Citadel — Anecdote — Old Cairo — Anecdote — Mosques — General Appearance — Preparations to Visit Palestine — Insurrection at Aleppo — Early Egypt not Idola- trous— Curiosities — Tetrawan — Xew Palace — Heliopolis — Obelisk — Balbeis — Camels — "Wells and Women — Bobbers —El Arish 409
CHAPTER XIX.
PALESTINE.
KhanJounes — Murder — Retaliation — Gaza — Quarantine — Laza- retto— Mosque — Ashdod — Bamlah — Hill Country — Jerusa- lem— City Walls — Mosque of Omar — Foundations of the Temple — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Dr. Gobat — Church of the Holv Sepulchre — Literary Society — Pool of Siloam — Ancient Bridge — Mount of Olives — Gethseniane — Bethany — Solo- mon's Pools — Hebron — Pilgrims — Machpelah — Mamre — Bethlehem — Gilgal — Jericho — Jordan — Greek Christians — Dead Sea— Naby Moyse — Cisterns in Jerusalem — Supplies of Water — Mohammedanism — Leave Jerusalem — Bethel — Anathoth — Shechem — Jacob's Well — Ebal — Gerizini — Se- "baste — Jenin — Esdraelon — Xazareth — Mount Tabor — Lake of Tiberias — Cits- of Tiberias — Magdala — Mount Herrnon — Thorns and Thistles — Condition of Women — Baneas — Silk- worms— Druses — Damascus — Missionaries at Damascus — Mohammedanism — Bomanism — Outbreak at Aleppo — Jews at Damascus — Zebedane — Baalbec — Immense Block — Diffi- cult Travelling — Zachle — Malaka — Hail, Snow, Ice — Beyrut — Alexandria — The "Bipon" — Arrival at Southampton — Beach Home — Directors — Papal Aggression — Summing up —Conclusion 440
SKETCH OF THE
§<WI£ IRE H (DOT'YraiEYca ™e©MA»E 3EIVEIR.
nurf * SuuulenieiilniyMap of
SOITH AFRICA.
CHAPTEE I.
ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE — TABLE BAY SENTIMENT DURING MY VISIT
POLITICAL CREED ILLUSTRATIONS CONVICT QUESTION MORAL
FEELING OP THE COLONY GENERAL OBJECTS OP MY MISSION DR.
PHILIP UNION CHAPEL NOTICE OF THE COLONY EXTENT, LANDED
PROPERTY — EXPORTS CAPE TOWN SEAT OF GOVERNMENT POPU- LATION— CHRISTIAN MINISTRY PRESS — PREPARATION FOR TRAVEL"
LING STARTING FOR THE INTERIOR.
Amidst the kindest adieus and wishes, I left home in November, 1848, and embarked at Gravesend for Table Bay, on board the " Lady Flora," Capt. Eagles. A little detained against our will, by unfriendly breezes in the channel, we did not lose sight of the land we loved, till near Christmas. A favourable passage brought us, in the course of February, to the termination of our voyage. We came to anchor at night, at some little distance from the town. The morning ushered in the magnificent view of Table Mountain, towering in undiminished strength and grandeur, 4000 feet above the level of the ocean ; and there lay scattered before us, the shipping, outward and home- ward bound, riding in the Bay ; and there the town itself, spreading out along the margin of the Bay, and rising in the back ground to the foot of the mountain,
This was not my first visit to South Africa. I had been to Cape Town twice previously : once during my mission to Madagascar, in 1830, and again on my way to England, in 1836. The scene from the deck of the vessel, which I was now quitting, was therefore not new to me. But it
B
2 ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE.
had lost none of its charms. It can lose none. There is a boldness, grandeur, and sublimity about the Cape, of which the voyager never becomes weary, and every object is on a large scale. Table Mountain is lofty, " girded with power," — the range of mountain of which it is a goodly por- tion, vast and extensive, — the dense rolling white cloud on its summit, pouring over its front, and dissolving as it reaches a more genial current of air, awfully grand, — the Bay forming a noble sweep, — and at times the ocean itself rolling in with most magnificent impetuosity. All these have a voice ; they utter forth the greatness of the Creator, and his goodness in forming and decorating such a splen- did globe for the habitation of man.
I was soon on shore, and amidst familiar scenes and friends. Here my commission commenced, and I found ample occupation in discharging the various services for which I had gone out to the colony as a deputation from the London Missionary Society.
It may be candid to state at once the aspect under which I viewed the various matters that came under my obser- vation, and the prevailing sentiment which I carried with me, or wished to carry with me, in all my engagements, and throughout all my tour.
I went out, not to visit South Africa as a politician, a diplomatist, a merchant, a hunter, or an adventurer. I went out as the representative of a Missionary Society, — prepared, indeed, to hear remarks on all subjects, and from all quarters; anxious to see all that might be deemed of general interest, to collect information from all authentic sources, to exercise my own judgment and a Briton's liberty of expressing my opinions ; but I was mainly occupied with the great interests of humanity and Christian Missions. I travelled among the civilized and the uncivilized — the learned and the rude, — and I felt everywhere confirmed in the sentiment, in which I am persuaded my readers heartily concur, that while Christianity is essential to the highest and permanent prosperity of nations, it is not less so to the
POLITICAL CREED. 3
civilizing process and gradual elevation of the Aboriginal Races, and to the safe and steady advance of colonial depen- dencies in their progress towards ultimate greatness, power, stability, and self-government.
My political creed is, that "Righteousness exalteth a nation," and that every departure from rectitude deterio- rates and debases a community. Christianity, the clearest and latest development of essential and immutable right- eousness, enforces on every man "to do unto others as he would others should do to him ;" a safe and comprehen- sive maxim, that summons into action the first and deepest principles of human nature, and guides that action so as to subserve the universal well-being of society. The in- stinctive love of our own welfare is constituted the rule of our intercourse with others ; and the only restraint on our liberty, is the innate and salutary dread of suffering evil ourselves ; for the converse of the maxim is as true as the rule itself — We may not do to others what we are unwill- ing they should do to us. When governments and their subjects become thoroughly imbued with this practical Christianity, nations will assuredly realize more harmony and prosperity than the pen of history has yet recorded, and the world will reap a richer harvest of " peace on earth and good-will among men," than prophets have fore- told, or poets sung.
These observations appear to me to apply to our Colo- nies with an augmented force. If in the matured and consolidated community, Christianity alone constitutes the healthful and conservative principle, so in our younger colonial communities, amidst their freshness, boldness, and comparative inexperience, the controlling, guiding, elevat- ing influence of Christian principle is so much the more needed, just as, in the season of the buoyant passions of youth, a more vigorous, faithful, and guardian watch is required than in the already sobered and well-regulated man of calm and meridian age.
Various illustrations of these remarks fell under my
4 MOEAL FEELING OF THE COLONY.
observation at the time of my arrival in the colony in the spring of 1849. In some cases, it was the treatment of the Colony by the Home Government that arrested my notice ; in others, projected measures of the local Govern- ment ; and in others the treatment of the border tribes by the Governor as High Commissioner. There seemed to me a stretch of authority, an arbitrary exercise of power, in- compatible with the golden rule of equity, — a want of lofty, noble, and generous principle.
There were several grave questions afloat at that time : the obtaining a " Constitution" from the mother country, that the colony might be fairly self-governed; another was, a " Vagrancy law ; " but the great excitement that prevailed respected the admission of convicts from Great Britain, and the dread of its being a plan of the Imperial Govern- ment to convert the colony into a penal settlement.
The strong moral and religious feeling of the colonists, there can be no doubt, was the means of saving it from the deterioration or destruction that would else have been inevitable. The proposed measure was strongly resisted, if not by "vi et armis," yet by all constitutional measures, almost to the very " edge of legality." The most judicious and right-hearted men in the colony felt that they had strong reasons for opposing the measure. They thought that the extensive and ever-widening surface of the colony, with a sparse population — the comparative distance of the seats of magistracy from one another, and the consequent facility of escape to evil-doors — the easily excitable mate- rials of the population on the colonial borders, and the immense mischief that a few ill-disposed, but talented 'w ticket- of-leave" men might effect, were ample grounds of objection to the measure. The resistance of the colonists did not originate in any spirit of vexatious opposition to the Home Government — for the colony is most loyal — nor in any unfilial desire to embarrass the mother country in the disposal of its convicts ; nor had it any mere party pur- pose to serve. It was the honest moral feeling of the
GENERAL OBJECTS OF MY MISSION. 5
colony that was aroused. The dread of an impending- danger, the extent of which the colonists thought could not be overrated, created the invincible resolution to avert an evil of such portentous magnitude, before it actually burst on the colony. Great honour 'is due to the public press of the colony for the lofty moral tone which it assumed on the occasion, and which at once guided and expressed the public sentiment. That sentiment obtained ultimately an honourable issue. The Government of Great Britain yielded to the clearly expressed voice of the colony, as a wise government will not fail to do, when that senti- ment commends itself, as it did in this case, to the im- partial consciences of men as the expression of truth and equity, humanity and sound policy.
It may not be unsuitable to introduce here a brief extract from the Letter of Instructions with which I was furnished by the Directors of the London Missionary Society, in relation to my present tour : — " The general objects of your mission are expressed in the following ' Eesolution of the Board,' on which your appointment has been founded, namely : —
" To devise means for rendering Missions in the Cape Colony more efficient — to inquire into the best means of economising the administration of the Society's funds in their support — to aid in carrying into execution any in- structions the Board may form regarding new arrange- ments of its Missions there — and to report on the whole question of the appointment of a successor to Dr. Philip."
From this extract it will immediately appear that one of my earliest steps on reaching the colony would be, to com- municate freely with Dr. Philip himself. And this, I am thankful to say, I had the privilege of doing. I had long known and always revered that eminent man. "While yet myself a student for the ministry, thirty-five years ago, I had enjoyed his friendship, and the lapse of years had but enlarged and confirmed my estimate of his worth. The more I came to understand of Christian Missions, the more
6 DE. PHILIP UNION CHAPEL.
sound and comprehensive appeared to me the views of Dr. Philip. He has been a man of shrewd and philosophic observation, in all that pertains to the history and ad- vancement of Christianity in the world. No man better understands the theory of Missions. He has brought to that subject a large amount of previous reading and deep thinking. His correspondence on that subject has been of immense value. When he shall have finished his course and entered his rest, I fear no " autobiography" will be found to fill up a portion of the vacuum. But I believe materials will exist, and some one competent to use them aright will be found, that our invaluable conductor of South African Missions, though dead, may yet speak.
The venerable Doctor Philip I found greatly enfeebled in health, but retaining an undiminished interest in all that pertains to the kingdom of God among men. In- capable of bearing any longer the burden and responsibi- lities of office, as Superintendent of the Society's Missions in South Africa, he had, for a long time, urged on the Directors to make such arrangements as might relieve him, and yet secure the welfare of the Missions. That arrange- ment, I indulge the hope, has been satisfactorily effected. Dr. Philip has retired to Hankey, near Port Elizabeth, where, in the bosom of the surviving members of his family, he may pass, amidst the kindest sympathies and the scenes of usefulness in which he still loves to associate, the evening of his valuable life, — full of faith, and fervent in prayer, as in his earliest days, and often illustrating the sentiment of Herbert, of which he frequently reminded me when conversing with him —
The soul's dark cottage, battered and decayed,
Lets in new light through chinks that tirne has made.
The pulpit of Union Chapel, Cape Town, had been for some time vacant. The congregation was anxious to obtain a minister. While desirous that he should devote as much of his time and energies to the service of the
NOTICE OF THE COLONY. 7
Missionary Society as might be compatible with the faith- ful discharge of his pastoral duties, they were not willing to regard the latter simply as an appendage to the office of an agent or superintendent of the Society's Missions. It occurred, during my visit, that the Bev. W. Thompson, of the Society's Missions in India, touched at the Cape on his way to England. His temporary services were acceptable in Union Chapel, — he was warmly pressed to remain for a time, and ultimately received a cordial invitation to the pas- torship. On visiting England and consulting his friends, Mr. Thompson saw it his duty to accept the invitation, combined with an appointment, on the part of the Directors of the London Missionary Society, to act as their agent. Mr. Thompson returned to Cape Town in the summer of 1850, and has entered on his important sphere of service under auspicious circumstances, which, with God's bless- ing, promise a successful ministry, an efficient agency, and a happy combination of both.
A condensed notice here of the colony generally, and of Cape Town itself, may not be altogether unsuitable, nor, to some of my readers, unacceptable.
The colony was founded by the Dutch about two centu- ries ago. The Netherland Government sent thither about two hundred men and women from Amsterdam. Thirty- five years afterwards, a valuable accession was made to the infant colony by the settlement of a number of industrious men, who left their home on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and who introduced to the Cape the culture of the vine. The English captured the colony in 1795. By the Treaty of Amiens it was restored to the Dutch, but was again taken by the English, in 1806, and finally ceded to them by the king of the Netherlands in 1815.
The colony extends about seven hundred miles from west to east, and, on an average, of about two hundred miles from north to south, and thus contains upwards of 140,000 square miles. Supposing all the large extent of territory to be ultimately added to the colony, over which authority
8 EXPORTS
has been claimed within the last four years, there would be
so immense an addition made to the colony, that " our South African Empire would cover, say '280,000 square miles, an area equal to the whole of the Austrian Empire including Lombardy and adding Piedmont to it."* The frontier line of this immense empire cannot be less than 1000 miles, and its line of coast probably about 1300, from the Gariep or Orange River on the west, to the Kei on the east. The estimated population of the 140,000 square miles first mentioned, is 175,000, being one and a quarter to a square mile. The colony is divided into the two pro- vinces of Eastern and Western ; the principal towns of which are respectively Graham's Town and Cape Town.
The value of the landed property throughout the Colony as rated for the purposes of the Road Improvement Ordi- nances, is, —
For the Western Province £4,000,806
For the Eastern ,, 1.(365.754
£5.666,560
Wool is largely cultivated and exported. Within the last few years, the increase of this produce has been most satisfactory, to the grower and the exporter.
The following brief Table will illustrate this increase : —
|
Exported from Cape Totvh Port Elizabeth. |
Total. |
|
|
1835 . |
. . ] 36,020 lbs. . . . 79,848 lbs. |
. . 215,868 lbs. |
|
1840 . |
. . 509,597 „ . . 401.521 „ |
. . 911,118 „ |
|
1845 . |
. 1.109.544 „ . 2,085,064 „ |
. 3,194,602 „ |
|
1848 . |
. 1,590,752 „ . 2,079,968 „ |
. 3,670,920 „ |
Some idea of the trade and navigatiomof the colony may be fo mied bv the following Table. During the vear 1848 : —
o
* See the masterly speech, of Sir Wm. Molesworth. Debate in the House of Commons, 10th April, 1851.
CAPE TOWN.
9
Vessels Tonnage. Out- Customs Imports. Exports.
inward. Total, wards, received. Yalue. Yalue.
p .515 214,979 506 £103,960 £1,152,018 £513,997
Ooast-I29 299
wise. J
806 805
Cape Town, originally laid out by the early Dutch colo- nists, and subsequently improved by the English, has during the last few years greatly progressed. The erection of new buildings, the covering in the water-courses, the con- structing of an excellent causeway, the introduction of gas, and the scientific laying out of the Botanic Gardens, speak much for the honour of the municipality, and the enter- prise of individuals. There is also the promise of still further improvement. There is a large amount of public spirit and intelligence among the inhabitants. If the colony can only be saved from the check and disturbance, the irritation and losses occasioned by wars on the frontiers, its capital towns will make steady advances in everything that is valuable and substantial. Cape Town must con- tinue to be the metropolis of the colony, though in some respects inconveniently distant from the frontier ; but so are Paris in France, and London in England. Table Bay requires a large outlay to make it all that merchants, ship- owners, and insurance offices desiderate ; but that outlay can be made, and every advantage gained. Jetties and breakwaters are occupying the attention of scientific men, of merchants, and the municipality at Cape Town. The distance to Algoa Bay, and Port East London, at the mouth of the Buffalo, can be accomplished by steamers in four or five days, and it is only in that neighbourhood, the vicinity of Kaffirland, that war is likely to occur. Graham's Town is far too much out of the way, in all respects, to be the metropolis of the colony and seat of government. Shipping must come to Table Bay. Port Elizabeth, one hundred miles from Graham's Town, has no harbour. Algoa Bay, on the margin of which the town of Port Eliza- beth stands, is simply a roadstead, and a very uncomfortable
] 0 SEAT OF GOVERNMENT POPULATION.
one; nature has not given it a harbour, and science cannot make one, though it may do much to obviate its disadvan- tages. The principal advantage of removing the seat of government to Graham's Town would be, that the Gover- nor would then be rather more in the neighbourhood of our troublesome acquaintances the Kaffirs, and ready to repress any sudden outbreak before it ripened into a war. But it would seem hardly worth while to disturb and dis- satisfy the whole colony merely for that atom of advantage. A commander-in-chief of the forces might reside in the vicinity of an unsettled border, and the seat of government remain where it is. Besides, it may be hoped these border wars will terminate. The present, it is predicted by some, will be the last : most probably it will be, if the Imperial Government will do justice in its settlement of questions with the border tribes, and if the colony is allowed to manage its own affairs, by having a liberal constitution granted, such as there is reason to think will not be much longer withheld, and certainly cannot, with safety.
Cape Town, according to the last census of 1842, contains a population of 21,840 ; viz. —
Males, 10,612. White, 9,359.
Females, 11,228. Coloured, 12,481;
engaged in various occupations, 7319.
With regard to religious profession, there were returned
as Christian 14,767
Mohammedan 6,435
Jews 170
Uncertain and heathen 621
Showing about two-thirds of the population professedly Christian and nearly one-third Mohammedan.
For the Christian portion of the population a very con- siderable amount of Christian instruction is provided. Cape Town is eminently favoured with the institutions of reli- gion. For the Mohammedan population not much Chris-
CHRISTIAN MINISTRY. 11
tian effort is made of any direct kind : some of their children attend the daily schools of Cape Town, where, in common with other scholars, they receive instruction in Christian truth ; but their parents usually remove them at an early age, partly, it may be, because they require their services at home, and partly also to prevent the risk of their minds becoming too much imbued with the truths of our religion. The general designation of the Mohammedan population in the colony is " Malay;" probably because some of them, or their ancestors, came originally from the islands of the Malayan Archipelago. It is now applied indiscriminately to all who attend the services of the Mohammedan priests, irrespectively of their geographical origin.
For the Christian population of Cape Town there is the following provision of places of worship and ministers ; viz.:
Two of the Dutch Reformed Church, under the ministry
of the Rev. Messrs. Faure, Spyker, and Heyns. The Evangelical Lutheran Church, Rev. J. M. K. van
Staveren. St. Stephen's Church (a separation originally from the
Lutheran Church), Ministers, Rev. Dr. Adamson, and
G. W. Stegman. Two English Episcopal Churches. The Rt. Rev. Dr.
Gray, Lord Bishop of the diocese, and Rev. W. A.
Newman, of St. George's. Rev. R. G. Lamb, of Trinity
Church. St. Andrew's Church, Church of Scotland, Rev. G. Mor- gan. Two Congregational Churches : Union Chapel, Rev. W.
Thompson. Rev. M. Vogelgezang, at present in hired
rooms. Two Wesleyan Chapels. South African Missionary Society, Long Street Chapel,
Rev. J. H. Beck. Free Church of Scotland, Rev. W. Gorrie. Roman Catholic Chapel, and Bishop.
12 THE PEESS.
There are numerous day and infant schools, a South African College, a Public Library of 30,000 volumes, Lite- rary and Scientific Institution, Tract and Book Society, Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, Orphan House, Widow's Fund, Provident Fund, Benevolent Society, and an ample array of local institutions, indicative of mercan- tile prosperity, and the guarantee of its increase, such as Banks, Joint Stock Companies, Gas Light, Fire and Life, Assurance and Trust Companies, Marine Assurance Companies, Steam Company, &c. &c.
The Press also in Cape Town maintains a high and in- fluential position. The "Commercial Advertiser" has long sustained a lofty character for talent, intelligence, truthful- ness, and liberality. It has been the advocate of all en- lightened measures in the internal management of the colony, and of a just and humane policy towards the border tribes. The " Cape Town Mail," and the " Cape of Good Hope Observer," are rendering eminent service by the diffusion of sound and liberal sentiments, and the impar- tial discussion of great and vital principles. " The Zuid Afrikaan," and "Het Volksblad," are popular organs with their respective supporters. Government has its "Gazette,"^ and its friends their own " Monitor ;" the merchants have their " Shipping and Mercantile Gazette ;" the Orange River Settlement, Graham's Town, Port Elizabeth, and Natal, have their own periodicals, of greater or less value, but all indicating that men are awake and prepared to think and act for themselves on the great platform of free and intel- ligent society.
During the early part of my stay in Cape Town, I em- braced an opportunity of waiting on his Excellency the Governor, Sir Harry Smith, to whom I was introduced by Dr. Philip. I explained to him the objects of my visit to the Colony, and received from him the assurance of his interest in the Missionary enterprise, and his readiness to afford me any facilities in his power ; and I found the same courtesy and offers of service on the part of the
PREPARATION FOR TRAVELLING. 13
Honourable Mr. Montague, Colonial Secretary. And here I may be allowed to say that, strongly as I think civilians are to be preferred as governors of most of our colonies, such as Sir Alexander Johnston, of Ceylon ; Sir Stamford Baffles, of Sumatra ; and Lord William Bentinck, of India, there is yet much in the hero of Aliwal, now Governor of the Cape of Good Hope, to admire. He is studiously anxious to promote the welfare of the Colony ; he is un- wearied in his application to business ; and many of his plans are wise, sound, and beneficial. Of his decision, promptness, and bravery, there can be no question. But his decision may be at the expense of accuracy and equity, his promptness may compromise his discretion, and his bravery may be without magnanimity. He may fondly lean oh the -prestige of his own name, and reject wholesome suggestions ; and yet be the victim of adulation and the mere organ of a party. He may give himself credit for being unbiased, and yet succumb to ungenerous prejudices. The truth is, Sir Harry Smith has far too much on his hands ; too much simply as Governor, and especially with- out a Council, and immensely too much also as High Com- missioner for the Affairs of the Border Tribes. The relief of his Excellency, the welfare of the Colonists, the peace of the Border Territory, and the honour of the Imperial Government, are all bound up in the self-government of the Colony. The measures of his Excellency in relation to the " Border Tribes," will fall under observation in the subsequent part of this volume.
Having offered this brief sketch of the colony and of Cape Town, I commence my Tour. It need scarcely be remarked, that English travelling and colonial travelling are two very different things ; they represent the two opposite ideas of swiftness and slowness — of all convenient and inviting arrangements made for you, and of all neces- sary yet complex arrangements you make for yourself. But man adapts himself with marvellous facility to all climates and all circumstances, and nature everywhere
14 SIR HARRY SMITH.
provides him with an ample fund of materials to gratify and instruct him. I found I must now prepare myself in sober earnest, and with all the patience which familiarity with railway speed • had left me, for the rather tedious method of travelling two and a-half miles or three miles an hour, in a huge wagon, drawn by some ten or twelve stout oxen. The usual cost of a well-made wagon, fitted up for the journey, and with all the needful gear, is about £100. The oxen requisite cost about half that sum. At the end of the journey the wagon generally sells for about half its cost, or if not much damaged, two-thirds. The oxen are by that time of diminished bulk and value. They are changed into lean kine, and require a vacation to graze and ruminate. The traveller must procure a driver and leader. In these services the Hottentots are unequalled. A good attendant who can cook, " and make himself gene- rally useful," is essential to the traveller's well-being. An adequate supply of provisions must be laid in for the journey. Warm clothing for the day, and some warm blankets for night, will be found welcome companions on the road. The nearer the traveller approximates to the homoeopathic use of wines, the smaller the chance of breakage and vexation. Two good casks of fresh water suspended under the wagon, and supplied from time to time from " Afric's sunny fountains," without their golden sands, will enable him to enjoy the luxury of a refreshing cup of bohea or coffee, on the shortest notice. Bread, meat, and poultry, can usually be obtained on the road, till the traveller gets beyond the boundaries of what we term civilized life. For dainties and luxuries, he had better wait — till he can procure them ; or if very anxious for them, he had better — not undertake the journey.
My arrangements being completed, I set out from Cape Town in May, 1849, with the design of visiting, in the first instance, all our Missionary stations and institutions within the colony. For a fortnight after leaving Cape Town I was not a solitary traveller; my friend, the Rev. E. Miller,
STARTING FOR THE INTERIOR. 1 5
of the Free Scotch Church, Cape Town, and now at Chin- surah, accompanied me as far as Swellendam and George, Zuurbrak and Pacaltsdorp.
My wagon preceded me to Hottentot's Holland Kloof. The next day Mr. Miller and myself followed in a hired horse vehicle, and overtook the four-wheeled conveyance soon after sunset. This plan of despatching the wagon first, allows the traveller a little time to breathe, to look round him, to complete sundry minor arrangements, which there are sure to be ; then to shake hands with his friends, and "start for the interior."
CHAPTE E II.
SWELLENDAM, DR. ROBERTSON DUTCH EMIGRANT BOERS ZUUR-
BEAE, VAGRANCY LAW MAGISTRATE'S REPORT MISSIONARY
REMARKS OX SAID REPORT INDUSTRY OF THE PEOPLE DEBTS
D. MOODIE, ESQ. CONTINUANCE OR ABANDONMENT OF MISSIONARY
INSTITUTIONS? OPINION OF DR. PHILIP ROUTE TO PACALTSDORP
INSTITUTION THERE PUBLIC MEETING GEORGE CRADOCR PASS
GATE KAMPHOOK HORSE CAR AND NATIVE DRIVING DYSSELS-
DORP PUBLIC MEETING OUDSHORN — MINERAL SPRINGS LABOUR
QUESTION CANGO CAVERNS AYONTUUR, MR. HOOD ANECDOTE OF
A KAFFIR.
On leaving Cape Town, my route was almost due east along the colony. I passed through the district of Stel- lenbosch, and observed with much gratification some of the admirable improvements lately made in the colonial roads there, under the able direction of the lamented and talented Colonel- Mitchel, Surveyor- General, especially at Sir Lowry's Pass, in this district, and at Houw Hoek, in the Svrellendam district. I passed, at a little distance, the village of Caledon, with its chalybeate spring (heat 92 deg.), said to be so useful in cases of chronic rheumatism ; and I saw, at no great distance, the Moravian establishment of Genadenthal ; but which, as I had arranged to be at Zuur- brak on the following Sunday, I had not the opportunity of visiting on this occasion. I had visited that institution some years previously. Its history and value are before the public.
SWELLENDAM. 17
Swellendam is a large district, and has extensive flocks of fine-woolled sheep. There is also a superior breed of horses. Some enterprising farmers have of late years paid much attention to these sources of wealth. The soil yields abundance of grain, and various fruits, which are dried and sold in the colonial markets. Vvrine and brandy are also made ; and among the products of the farms must be added, tallow, butter, soap, and aloes.
There is not much to attract the notice of the traveller on the road through the district to the town of Swellendam. In geology, a large portion of the country consists of hard coarse slate and sandstone, belonging, I presume, to the Silurian formation; then some portion of old red sand- stone, and above that hard ironstone, quartzose rock, blocks of granite and sandstone. The rainy season had not yet commenced when I was there ; a few spring leaves of gladioluses and other bulbous flowers, were diligently pushing their way through the soil. Trees were very scarce ; human beings more so ; farms seemed few, and with very limited signs of wealth or comfort. Of birds and wild animals we saw none : all was still life, with a fine clear atmosphere, splendid weather, and magnificent nights; a stony path under our feet, and "the milky way" above us, full of glory ; " Scorpio," quietly stretching out at full length before us, and the " southern cross" far up in the heavens, — a sign, as it seemed, that the cross of redemption shall ultimately be ascendant everywhere, and bright over every dark spot of our earth.
The town of Swellendam is pleasantly situated in a fer- tile valley. The climate is salubrious, but the atmosphere is rather humid : its heat in summer, about 80 deg. It contains some good substantial family residences, in part after the old Dutch style, and in part after a modernized English fashion. There is a good church, a parsonage, a town hall, and a gaol, besides sundry other public build- ings. I had an agreeable interview here with Dr. Robertson, minister of the Dutch Reformed Church. He had lately
G
IS DUTCH EMIGRANTS.
been on a visit to the emigrant Dutch Boers, far in the interior, in and beyond the Orange River sovereignty, administering to them the ordinances of religion. It ap- peared to me that much more was wanted to promote the religious welfare of those numerous emigrants than these occasional visits and periodical administrations of Bap- tism and the Lord's Supper.
The community of the Dutch Reformed Church of the colony is large, respectable, and wealthy. Perhaps it may be rather languid, and, like most establishments, some- what unwieldy and difficult to move ; but it could not undertake a nobler mission than that of supplying their emigrant brethren with pastors, evangelists, and teachers, by whom I doubt not they would be well received (espe- cially if of Dutch extraction ), and by whom they would be in part cheerfully sustained.
The number of the emigrants is not exactly known. It cannot, however, comprise a community of less than twenty to twenty-five thousand persons. Then difficulties and sufferings have been immensely great; and whatever differ- ences of opinion may prevail as to their political relation to the colony, or their conduct towards the colony, no Christian mind can hesitate to desire for them. — just as many among them desire it for themselves, — an ample supply of spiritual instruction, without which they and their families must retrograde in everything pertaining to vital and practical religion : when, instead of being bless- ings to the heathen round about them, they would make- both the name of Christian and of white man to be utterly abhorred.
Our Missionary Institution at Zuurbraak is about twelve miles from Swellendam. For its early history I refer to the works of Rev. J. Campbell and Dr. Philip. Our vene- rable and eminently useful Missionary there, Rev. D. Helm, had lately entered into his rest. He was a man of eminent piety, much given to prayer, greatly honoured by all who knew him, and greatly prospered in his labour.
ZUUEBEAAE INSTITUTION. 19
His eldest son succeeds him in the office of Missionary and Superintendent of the Institution, and a younger son in the office of Schoolmaster — both of them devoted to the important work they have undertaken. Instead of the fathers come up the children. The village, although not to be compared with many of our English villages in romantic beauty, taste, and elegance, is not without its charms, and especially to a traveller who is willing to compare, as justice requires he should, existing things, not merely with the highest forms of civilization in com- munities of long standing and rich advantages, but with the former state of things, in which degradation, neglect, contempt, and insult, were the lot of the people, and out of which they had to emerge amidst many difficulties. It is something to have changed the old kraal into a decent village — the old kaross into substantial European clothing — idleness into industiy, ignorance into intelligence, self- ishness into benevolence, and heathenism into Christianity.
My impressions on entering the village of Zuurbraak, and passing through a portion of it to the Mission pre- mises, were on the whole pleasing, and yet somewhat sombre. There are some signs of improvement. Some houses are rebuilding, but many huts yet remain. There are gardens, but they want enclosures. There is not all one wishes to see, as proof that so much has been done for the people's improvement. Yet, when I compare what exists with the past, and think of two hundred families residing here, so far advanced as they are, I am grateful, encouraged, and even joyous. All are decently housed to what they formerly were, — in far better condition than the peasantry of England in the palmy days of Elizabeth, or the peasantry of Ireland now, — they are comfortably clad in fabrics of English manufacture ; all are on the way to a higher civilization, and all enjoy the ordinances of religion.
Besides attending the usual public services on the Sunday, I went in the afternoon to the schools. The adults were in the chapel, the children in the school-room.
20 VAGRANCY LAW,
Of the former I found one hundred and fifty men, and one hundred and twenty women in the classes ; of the latter, about one hundred and forty. I heard most of the classes read a little. About twenty or thirty women read with very creditable facility; some of them with great ease. Some old persons are also doing their best, though evi- dently commencing rather too late in life to make much progress. But it is a sight worth looking at — specta- cles employed to learn A B C. Cato began Greek at eighty.
After school a prayer-meeting was held. The natives conducted the devotional exercises ; and I must say they did so with intelligence, simplicity, and apparent fervour. A native woman pitched the well-known tunes of Devizes, Derby, and Mariner's, familiar to my ears from my youth upward. In the morning we had had the Old Hundredth, and Irish. The voice of joy and reioieine; is in the taber-
nacles of the righteous. It was often exhilarating, amidst African journeying, to hear the songs of Zion from musical native voices, to notes so jubilant in one's own land.
I found considerable excitement here, as indeed in many other parts of the colony, in consequence of some recent efforts to revive a "vagrancy law;" the design of which is to commit men as vagrants, and compel them to work, for limited periods, who might be found travelling about without some "pass," or ticket of permission to remove. Such a measure may supersede some evils ; it may detect and punish some that are idle, vicious, and ill-disposed, and it may prevent " squatting." But it creates greater evils than it prevents. It cannot be sustained without inflicting much oppression and cruelty, especially in a colony where there are no poor laws ; and it is this con- sideration which renders a vagrant law so emphatically unjust and inappropriate. The labourer has no parish to appeal to for relief; he must look out for work, and yet, in doins; that. — in carrvinsr his labour to the best market, — he is liable to be apprehended, and his labour forced from
magistrate's report. 21
him in the worst market. Such a measure, if carried, would assuredly rather injure than henefit the farmer. The industrious agricultural servant would be disgusted, and would " trek," that is, would leave the colony in search of a quiet settlement elsewhere, in the interior, to avoid its possible application to himself. It appears to all! right- minded men I conversed with on the subject, that in the absence of poor laws, to provide for the necessitous, a vagrant law could never be an equitable measure.
Amidst contending opinions as to the supply of labour, and the value of Missionary Institutions as creating and encouraging, or limiting and discouraging that labour, the Cape Government had very properly resolved on instituting careful local inquiry. Circulars were accordingly issued to the civil commissioners, magistrates, justices of the peace, ministers, missionaries, and other persons of intel- ligence and influence in the colony. Official Eeports had been transmitted to the Government. That which re- spected Zuurbraak was not favourable to the character of the people and the Institution. The Government had, with great consideration and fairness, sent it back to the re- sident and responsible Missionary, for his remarks and explanations. I think it would not be an easy task to exonerate the parties who drew up that Report from a sus- picion either of prejudice, or of having performed their work very superficially and discreditably. They remark, in their Report to the Government —
" From the loose manner in which the whole establishment is con- ducted, the absence of all control over its members by the superin- tendent, and there being no correct register or record for our guidance, we could arrive at no conclusion as to the number of persons belonging to the Institution. The superintendent believed there must be about 1400 or 1500, including all ages ; but as many came for a month or two, and then went away for indefinite periods, he could not vouch for the accuracy of his statement or his books."
In reply to this ungenerous passage, the Missionary re- marks in his letter to the Government, dated 29th May,
'2-2 missionary's statement.
1849, written while I happened to be at Zuurbraak, and while I had the opportunity of testing, personally, the ac- curacy of the Missionary's statements —
"I beg to say, that no adequate opportunity was afforded me during the examination, of giving the evidence which I could have given, and was perfectly willing to afford, had I received any courteous treatment from the commissioners, or had proper time been allowed me. The truth is, I had returned only on the Saturday from a journey, I had my public service to prepare for and attend to on the Sunday, and on the Monday the examination commenced. I soon found that my presence was unwelcome, and my evidence regarded as suspicious. I produced the records of the Institution, and placed them upon the table of the commissioners. I never said, ' I could not vouch for the accuracy of my statements or my books.' I said I could not vouch for the accuracy of my memory in matters of detail, without referring to my books. I did not- say 'that many came for a month or two, and then went away for mdefinite periods.'
" Records have been kept from the commencement of the Institu- tion, and they show exactly the numbers admitted, the births, deaths, and removals ; they exhibit a total of 2100 as having belonged to the Institution since its commencement ; they justify my statement, that between fourteen and fifteen hundred are still connected with it, by retaining their names on the register, and regarding Zuurbraak as their home, though from three to four hundred do not permanently reside on the Institution, but are in the service of the farmers. If their names were erased from the register on account of absence, they would prefer to leave the farmers' service and return to reside on the Institution. This was clearly explained to the commissioners, but is not noticed in their Report.
"At present there are about 1100 residing at Zuurbraak, consisting of 215 families. Out of the whole number belonging to the Institu- tion, 200 men served in the Kaffir war hi 1816, and about 150 in 1847.
" There is nothing ' loose in conducting the establishment or in ex- ercising such control as falls within the province of the Missionary. He has no magisterial authority, and does not desire to have any : his influence is of a moral and religious character. The residents on the Institution are all enrolled, all known and visited, and are all under the religious instruction and care of the Missionary. "With their civil and domestic arrangements he has no power to interfere. The people are a free people, and dispose of their labour in the best market they can find. The lands belong to Government, and neither the Missionary nor the Missionary Society has any legal power to
TABULAR REPORT. 23
expel any inhabitant. At the same time, the people entertain great respect for the character, advice, and control of the Missionary. He is not "without influence, but it is moral, and not magisterial.
" Again, the Commissioners had reported that the members of the Institution, haying been previously warned of the inquiry and exami- nation that was to take place, were at our request assembled in the chapel; and when all collected excepting the sick, the members present were ascertained to be, 161 males, and 135 females. Of these, 105 were examined, besides the women, who said they could read ; the remainder left the chapel of their own accord, or were said to be persons whose parents had given evidence.
"The Tabular Report shows the result of this examination, which may be briefly summed up as follows : —
" Three could read a verse of the New Testament tolerably well.
" Three could write their names.
"Fifteen attempted to read, but their progress was so imperfect as to be a failure.
" Eighty-seven said they could neither read nor write.
" Twelve stated themselves to be of a particular calling, trade, or business.
" Xinety-three said they followed no particular trade or employ- ment, but cultivated their gardens, and went about the country to cut wood, plough, drive wagons, reap, and other agricultural work, without being in any regular service.
" Of the 105, few could tell their own, their wives', or their child- ren's ages.
"A subscription of one shilling per month appears to be contri- buted by each family towards the London Missionary Society."
On this passage the Missionary remarks, as to three only being found who could read a verse of the New Testament tolerably well —
"I affirm that there are at least 140 persons belonging to the Insti- tution, above eighteen years of age, who can read any chapter in the Bible with ease, and so as to understand it."
I must say, I quite believe this statement, for I heard very many read on the Sunday afternoon I was there, with perfect ease and correctness.
" ' Three could write their names.' There are at least forty adults who can write tolerably well.
" 'Eighty-seven could neither read nor write.' It is probable that
24 NATIVE INDUSTRY.
several who could either read or -write, were prevented by mere shy- ness from acknowledging what would perhaps immediately lead to an unfavourable exhibition of their qualifications before judges, whom, from their bearing, they could not help looking upon as prejudiced against them and the Institution.
" But, if it had been as stated in the Report, some allowance ought to have been made for the difficulty persons must find who begin, when adults, to learn to read and write, and who are constantly em- ployed in the field as agricultural labourers."
Again : —
" ' Twelve said they were of a particular calling, trade, or business ; and ninety-five represented themselves as agricultural labourers.'
"Out of 250 men," rejoins the Missionary, "residing on the Insti- tution, 187 support themselves and families by engaging as farmers' labourers, and are in regular service. The rest of the men are wood cutters, carriers, five or six are small farmers, and a few are mechanics."
That many of the adults do not know their own ages, or that of their children, may be perfectly true, nor do they attach much importance to the matter.
The Commissioners state, that one shilling per month is contributed by each family towards the London Mission- ary Society.
"The fact is, there is an Auxiliary to that Society; and it has raised during the last ten years an average amount of £40 — showing that only about one-third of the sum stated by the Commissioners has been realized. If all paid as stated by them, it would nearly relieve the funds of the Parent Society of any charge for supporting the Missionary, — an object very much to be desired."
The Missionary has no interest in the amount raised. He receives his salary from the Parent Society, and the contributions of the people, whether large or small (which are all voluntary) are paid into the Society's funds as those of an Auxiliary.
The Commissioners speak of liberated negroes as ad- mitted to the Institution. There is neither law, custom, nor principle, to forbid this, even if it were so ; but the truth is, only five have been admitted ; and of these, three
EARNINGS OF THE PEOPLE. 25,
were admitted on account of their having married young women belonging to the Institution.
" Others reside here," the Commissioners state, "who are withdrawn from agricultural labour in the district, and have realized property, • and one such is specified. This is granted; but these men have realized the property since they came to the Institution, by their industry and frugality. It would be cruel and unjust to expel them on this ground. They are useful examples to all the rest, and they deserve encouragement themselves.
" In proof of the general industry of the people, it may be remarked, that out of the first fifty-two names which occur in the tabular list given by the Commissioners, thirty-five who happen now to be here, and who have given an account of their labours and earnings during the last year, actually obtained during that period £809. This was realized mainly by the men, but aided to some extent by the women, in the sale of mats, and dress-making. This is exclusive of the garden produce raised and used by their families, and of the food given to the men by the farmers while actually in their employment. The above account gives an average of about £23 10s. for each family, in money ; and this is about the amount that is raised by the families generally throughout the Institution, as the reward of then- diligent labour and honest industry."
The above quotations might be sufficient to meet the case. But, as the Report of the magistrates so deeply affects the character of the Missionary Institutions, I am persuaded that it is due to them to add these further re- marks of Mr. Helm : —
"Another proof of the general industry, and amount of the earn- ings of the people of the Institution, is the sums realized by persons, who, at the request of the people, and in order to obviate the neces- sity for their resorting to villages where there are canteens, have been encouraged to open shops at the Institution. One has retired, having realized in five or six years £800, by his profits on the manufactures, &c, which he sold; and I have been shown the books of another, by which it appears that he receives above £100 per month in cash, and more than twice as much during the harvest and sheep -shearing months. I am authorised by Mr. Barry to state that he pays above £600 sterling annually to carriers belonging to the Institution ; and by a gentleman in the neighbourhood, who shears between 4000 and
20 CHARACTER OF THE INSTITUTIONS.
5000 sheep, and reaps from 100 to 200 muids of grain, that, beside from 200 to 300 rix dollars, (equal to one shilling and six pence each) which he pays to Hottentots constantly hi his service, he pays more than 500 rix dollars — a sum equal to £37 10s. sterling — in wages to day labourers belonging to the Institution ; and the probability is, that as much is paid, hi proportion to their want of labour, by all who trust to the Institution for a supply of day labour.
" The married women do not go out to work, as a general rule. They have all families, and they reside at home to attend to then- households, manufacture mats, &c. It is not the wish of the men that then wives should go out to labour ; they labour for them and then children. Many of the young women are out in service at Swellendam and elsewhere."
A severe insinuation is made on the general character of those who are admitted to the Institution, in the following terms : —
" Trom what came under our notice, it is evident no hindrance' or obstacle is thrown in the way of parties, of whatever character, resort- ing there, and making Zuurbraak then home," &c.
It must be admitted that many who come and seek ad- mission are not relioious ; and it is feared that some who reside on the Institution are not religious. But all who come profess to be so, that they may enjoy the advantages of religious instruction, and all who reside on the Institu- tion avail themselves of such instruction ; and assuredly no temptations are offered to others of vicious character to come there for residence, for no canteen is permitted, and there are no females who are known to be of depraved habits. No females live in houses by themselves ; all the houses are occupied by married couples and their families.
"With regard to ' debts,' I must distinctly affirm that no encourage- ment is given to any to incur debts; and, in fact, not more than £100 is due from the entire popidation, not even a twentieth part of their annual earnings. The ^Missionary has no interest whatever in the shop, or the sale of goods in any way.
" I cannot close my letter without briefly remarking on the spirit of the Report. I consider it flagrantly unjust towards the people, for whose general character, as honest, diligent, virtuous, and sober, I solemnly vouch. The Report is unfaithful to the people, whom it
D. MOODIE, ESQ. 27
grossly misrepresents ; and to the government, which, it is calculated to deceive. The supposed writer of it, the party principally employed on it, — and who, I may remark, had previously committed himself too seriously to be considered an impartial judge, — may have found difficulty in obtaining servants and labourers, which, if the whole truth were told, might reflect more discredit on himself than on the people. On this, however, I forbear to remark, especially as he is now absent from the colony."
The gentleman referred to in the above letter, D. Moodie, Esq., Justice of the Peace, was present at a subsequent ex- amination of 104 heads of families belonging to the Institu- tion, as to their occupations and their earnings. He has borne testimony to the progressive improvement of this people.* He is competent to form a judgment on the case from his long residence in the neighbourhood, his practical know- ledge of the people, and his official intercourse with them. The following is an extract from Mr. Moodie's testimony : —
"I certify that I have possessed, and generally occupied my present residence, within an hour's ride of the Institution, during a period of thirty-two years, and, deducting short periods of absence, have re- sided here more than a quarter of a century ; that I know almost every
resident member of the Institution ; that, for several years,
an exception has been rare to the general fact, that the Hottentots of Zuurbraak Institution earn an honest livelihood, perhaps hi the very best way that it could be done for the interests of the community of which they form a part ; that, for several years, thefts of sheep or cattle are seldom heard of, and the suspicion, when they do occur, generally attaches rather to wandering persons of colour than to the residents of any Missionary Institution ; that there is no country in the world where property of the kind is more secure at present from depredation than in the neighbourhood of Zuurbraak."
There cannot be anything more unjust or subversive of the best interests of humanity than the obloquy so wantonly heaped on the Missionaries, to whose character and exer- tions the present advanced state of civilization amongst the
* See "Blue Book," entitled Addenda to the Documents on the Working of the Order in Council of July 21st, 1846, p. 98, Cape Town, 1849.
28 CONTINUANCE OR ABANDONMENT
Hottentots and coloured population is principally owing, on the alleged ground of their management of the tempo- ral concerns of their hearers, by interfering with them in the disposal of their labour.
The public are indebted to the Missionaries hitherto for having, merely by their moral influence, without a shadow of legal authority, saved to it the expense of Institutions required for the control of assemblages equally numerous in other localities.
In noticing the advances the Hottentots have made in civilization, the progress they have made in erecting for themselves, for persons of their class, really substantial houses, and the acquisition of other comforts, should not be overlooked ; and this they have done under the most unfavourable circumstances, without any recognised indi- vidual right to the soil, or even their own capital, which they have fixed upon it.
There can be no doubt that there is ample room for im- provement in the Institution, as indeed in all of them, and it might be difficult to find any institution in the world, in which there is not room for improvement. It is evident that in all these South African Institutions, there might be more industry, better houses, larger portions of land brought under culture ; the people might do more towards their own social and religious improvement. Perhaps much of this would be effected, if the people were more encouraged. The Hottentot labourer requires a stimulus, not that of the threat or the lash, but kind treatment and fair wages ; and when among the farmers, some decent place to lodge and sleep in ; in a word, to be made to feel that he is regarded as a reasonable being.
It may not be out of place here, to allude to the grave question of the continuance or abandonment of these In- stitutions altogether. Some have thought that the time has come when they are no longer required; when the people might be left to their own energies and resources, without that constant superintendence supplied by the
OF MISSIONARY INSTITUTIONS. 29
Missionaries, and when the colony would be more gene- rally benefited by their distribution among the farmers, than by retaining them congregated in their present lo- calities. Others, without adopting all these views, have thought it would be advantageous to give the Hottentots a freehold right in the soil of the Institutions, so that they should have the power of sale and transfer, and that, possessing an interest of that nature in the soil, they would feel a stronger inducement to improve it, and to build substantial houses. The objection to this is, that, in all probability, the Hottentots, for the most part, under the prospect of a temporary advantage, would be tempted to sell and alienate their lands. Europeans or colonists would become the purchasers, the aborigines would soon cease to retain an interest in the soil, the design of the Institutions would be wholly superseded, and the pur- poses of Government, in granting this use of the land, frustrated.
It appears to me altogether undesirable to dissolve the Institutions. The Hottentots and other natives enjoy moral and religious advantages there, which they could not if dispersed through the colony. If dispersed, their fami- lies would be left without education, and would rapidly deteriorate; they themselves would sink into dependency and apathy, for want of the sympathy of numbers, of class, and of association, and for want of the guidance and cheer- ing counsel of the Christian Pastor. They would be, moreover, exposed to the prejudices still largely existing against colour, without the indemnifying feeling which they now have, that they form a community, and a community of some importance. Their isolation, if dispersed, would destroy this remnant of consolation, and they would inevi- tably sink under the oppressive feeling of being a people, "scattered, peeled, and trodden down."
It may be worthy of consideration also, whether the colony and the Government would not be greatly injured by the dispersion of the residents of the Institutions. The
30 OPINION OF DE. PHILIP.
farmers have thought it would necessarily augment the number of their labours. I think the effect would be just the reverse. Many of these people, distrusting their em- ployers, and fearing that a vagrancy law would soon be introduced, would migrate, and pass beyond the colonial boundaries. This was the resolution, I know, which many of them had formed, in case a vagrancy law were adopted ; and their dispersion would produce the same effect.
In case of border-war with the Kaffirs, the Government has hitherto found it a matter of convenience to appeal to all these Institutions at once for effective aid ; and until the present war (1850), the appeal has been successful. This may, perchance, not be a reason for sustaining the Institutions, in the view of members of the Peace Society, but I am suggesting it as a view of the case which the local government cannot altogether overlook, whose opinion, it is understood, is not favourable to the perpetuation of the Institutions.
To this I will only add the deliberate judgment of the venerable Dr. Philip, as communicated to the Directors of the Missionary Society, in December, 1848. His remarks arise out of a suggestion that " the property, i.e. the land, be made absolutely transferable," or, "transferable under the important condition, (to prevent the whole from falling into the hands of one or two speculators,) that " one person only should hold one original share of the lands." Dr. P. observes : —
" At present, the residents or members of those Institutions, while their families are receiving instruction, are useful to the neighbour- ing farmers as labourers, and in various capacities perform useful service to the public. TVTien not so employed, they also receive instruction and find a home at the Institution. In this manner an educated and moral class of labourers, or peasantry, is gradually formed and distributed throughout the colony ; for whenever an individual or family think they can better their condition by removing to a town or village, or to some agricultural district, they feel at per- fect liberty to do so ; and this is the distinguishing characteristic of our Institutions or Schools. They are preparatory Institutions for
PACALTSDORP. 31
converting the savage and heathen natives of the colony into a civilized and Christian and free class of citizens, ready to fulfil the duties of any rank or station to which their industry, talents, and good conduct may raise them. This has been accomplished in the case of many thousands, who still warmly proclaim that they owe all they enjoy, or hope for, to these Institutions ; but thousands still remain for whom they must be kept open, unless we are prepared, when doing good, to say 'It is enough,' though the work is still im- perfect. When all are educated for whom these Institutions were established in 1801, or when means equally effective for promoting among them the knowledge of Christ are adopted throughout the whole colony, or when they shall no longer be needed as asylums, then may the lands be made the freehold property of the existing holders ; then may all distinctions between these and other villages be abolished, and the coloured classes, no longer barbarians or heathens, may then be left like all their fellow subjects to their own resources."
If any radical change were to be effected in these Insti- tutions, such as the resumption of the lands by the Government, if that were deemed an equitable and proper measure, then I am disposed to think, it would be expedient for the Missionary Societies, or other parties friendly to the aborigines, to purchase large farms in the most suitable localities, and constitute these native villages, when the land might he let on easy but remunerative terms, where suitable regulations could be adopted and carried into effect, more rigidly than now, where the Missionary has no power to eject members however injurious to the local com- munity, and discreditable to the Missionary Society, which is held responsible, in public estimation, for the character and conduct of all the residents in the Institutions.
After having paid a visit to Mr. Moodie, the magistrate already mentioned, I proceeded towards Pacaltsdorp, a distance of about three days' journey. The first night we remained at Eiversdale, a rising village and promising district. Here is some fine rich country, consisting of extensive plains and valleys, watered by the Yet stream. The hills reminded me of those of Worcestershire and Devonshire, — sloping and gently rounded. They belong
32 PACALTSDORP.
to the old red sandstone formation. From thence we pro- ceeded toward the Gauritz River, and rested for the night within three miles of it. The descent is steep and difficult. We crossed in safety, and hoped to reach Pacaltsdorp that evening, and for that purpose had hired an additional team of oxen at Riversdale ; but we found the distance too great, and the cattle two feeble. Besides having his horned cattle, the traveller in Africa frequently finds himself in the "horns" of a dilemma. If he travels in the rainy season, his oxen obtain grass, but the rivers are swollen, and there is delay, as the shoulders of the animals are grazed and scarred by the yokes, and they cannot draw ; and if he travel in the dry season he finds neither sufficient grass nor water, and his cattle are unfit for much service ; and then he sidis for the comfort of English travelling.
We spent part of the Sunday at the Convict Station, where we had permission to hold a service. We slept that night near the Guayang River, crossed it early next morning, ascended the neighbouring hill and soon came in sight of Pacaltsdorp. Six of the people came forward on horseback to give me their greeting, and on getting near the village about seventy or eighty more on foot; they sang a Dutch hymn, as they proceeded by the side of my wagon, to the heart-stirring tune of " God save the Queen" — a tune that always adds some 25 per cent, to the pulse of an Englishman, in whatever quarter of the world he may chance to be ; we presently passed within the green painted gates of the Institution, and found ourselves welcomed by the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Atkinson, and Rev. W. Anderson, then in his eightieth year, and the fiftieth of his Missionary service.
We held a public meeting that evening, About two hundred and fifty of the people attended. I embraced the opportunity of addressing them on various points relating to their social improvement and religious advantages. The Rev. E. Miller, who had accompanied me thus far, did the same. About eight of the people then responded to our
PACALTSDORP. 33
remarks, in a brief but appropriate manner. Their re- marks were principally confined to their spiritual interests ; they acknowledged how much they were indebted to the gospel for all their improvement and enjoyment which had been conveyed to them by our Society, and which they knew and felt to be the truth. Two of them spoke with much ease and fluency, and on my inquiring afterwards who they were, it was with no little satisfaction I found that one of them was Andries Kogerman, who was to be my attendant from this spot through the rest of my journey, a deacon of the Church, and who had often accompanied Dr. Philip, in the same capacity. And I found him to the end of my journey, and till I left the colony, a faithful, kind, attentive, and excellent man.*
Pacaltsdorp takes it name from Mr. Pacalt, an excellent Missionary from Germany, formerly placed here by the Directors of the London Missionary Society, and whose memory is held in honour by the people. The Institution has laboured under disadvantages. The land is held by a " ticket of occupation" from the Government ; but unless the people have a personal right in the soil, they are scarcely willing to improve it so diligently as they might do ; at any rate, they plead this as an excuse for not doing it. A farm in the neighbourhood has been purchased for their benefit, and towards which they contributed a por- tion. They appeared to me to require stimulating ; and yet the incessant demand for stimulus is extremely fatiguing and exhausting to a Missionary. They have a Missionary of great mildness and excellence to labour among them. In addition to all his other services, he takes charge of the school ; and one cannot but hope he may witness the suc- cess of his toil, both among the juvenile and the adult
* Andries was leaving his wife and family, to accompany me for many months. As he could not write, and therefore could carry on no direct correspondence with Ms home, I advised him to try and learn during the journey. He did so, and succeeded in writing epistles not a few.
D
34 GEOEGE.
portion of his flock, on a larger scale than has yet been realized. Persevering energy seldom fails of accomplishing its object, " In due season ye shall reap, if ye faint not,"
There is an excellent Infant School at Pacaltsdorp, con- ducted by Miss Anderson. The daily school, which is not largely attended, is diligently conducted by Mr. Atkinson. It is to be lamented that the advantages of education are not more appreciated by the natives. That appreciation must, however, be of slow growth. Parents who do not know the value of instruction themselves, except of a very limited kind, cannot be expected to seek it very earnestly for their children. Some generations must pass before it is duly estimated and earnestly cultivated.
George is a rising town, with a population of about 1500. three miles from Pacaltsdorp. It is too liberally supplied with "canteens," — houses licensed for the sale of ardent spirits. Two or three might suffice, but the revenue obtains a sinister benefit by licensing nine ; and the morals of the people are trebly depreciated.
I attended an Annual Meeting of the Branch Bible Society in George. It was held in the large Dutch Chmch. The addresses were partly in Dutch and partly in English. The assembly was large — the collection moderate : a criterion rather of the careful habits, than the wealth of the people. The smallest coin in Her Majesty's realm occu- pied a prominent place in the contributions, — a too literal imitation of the offerings of one who gave her two mites, "which make one farthing,'' but who, in so doing, gene- rously and nobly " cast in all that she had, even her whole living."
Besides the Dutch Church, there is here a small Episco- palian community, under the ministry of Eev. J. Welby; a coloured congregation, to which the Society's laborious Missionary, Mr. Melville, preaches ; and a limited, though increasing English congregation of Nonconformists, who have lately invited the Rev. Wm. Elliott to become their pastor, whose long experience in the colony, and whose
CRADOCK MOUNTAINS. 35
eminent attainments as a scholar, qualify him to hold a most respectable position as a Christian minister, and promise great and solid advantages to any congregation that may be favoured with his services, and capable of appreciating their value.
At a little distance from George is the Cradock range of mountains, over which travellers formerly crossed by the difficult and dangerous " Cradock Pass ;" from the formida- ble difficulties of which passengers are now relieved by the construction of the " Montagu Pass/' a work that reflects great honour on the government, the engineer, and the surveyor.
An admirable sketch of the old Pass has been drawn by Colonel Mitchell, having perhaps a little touch of the romantic withal. " Road-boards" and road improvements add very much to the ease, comfort, and safety of travel- ing, but they woefully take off the charms of the pictur- esque, the adventurous, and the marvellous.
The Pass or Gate Kamphoor, on the way to Dyssels- dorp, constitutes one of the boldest, grandest, wildest scenes in nature. It reminded me of the Trossacks, near the Lake Katrine. Everywhere are exhibited the effects of the most fearful convulsions and disturbances of our earth's crust in some former period of its geological his- tory, and such as almost constrain the traveller to pause and ask himself, amidst his astonishment, whether he be still really an inhabitant of this planet, or has not been con- veyed away by some invisible force to a distant planet.
However, having pleasantly survived the astonishment, and got through the Poort, I reached the Kamanassie Stream, and was then met by our Missionary, the Eev. W. Anderson, son of our venerable friend at Pacaltsdorp. Mr. Anderson had very considerately come forward from Dysselsdorp to meet me with a horse-car — an agreeable change from a tedious ox- wagon — and by which means I was able to reach his station in time to rest, and after- wards attend a public evening service. In fact, we pro-
36 KAMANASSIE,
ceeded so rapidly, under the bold hand of a skilful native driver, and over roads so little troubled with any macadam- izing process, that it seemed, ever and anon, as though every limb and bone of this mortal frame would part company, unless held together by remarkably tenacious ligaments, and, " a leathern girdle round the loins." Many of Mr. Anderson's friends came out on horseback to meet the visitor, for several miles on the road. The Jehu of our car kept them on full gallop on his return.
There are not more than about eighty inhabitants in the village itself. Many hundreds live in the surrounding country among the farmers, and identify themselves with this Mission Station, so that on Sundays a congregation 1- usually collected of from 300 to 500 persons. The direct influence of the Missionary extends over about 1500 persons. The site of the village is a gentle eleva- tion of about 100 feet above the level of the Olifant (Ele- phant) River. It commands a fine view over a very exten- sive plain, which is bounded on the horizon by a range of lofty hills, including some highly picturesque scenery, rendered all the more striking by a long range of red-sand- stone hills, that have suffered by convulsions and sub- sidences, leaving a jagged, broken, abrupt appearance over the whole mass.
I was much gratified here by the spirit and manner of the people at public service. Nothing could be more decorous. All seemed attentive and in earnest, anxious to understand and to profit. Simplicity, sobriety, and truthfulness appeared to characterise them. All were comfortably attired, none gaudily. The singing was good, the voices melodious : the women's exceedingly clear, often musical ; and the men's a good accompaniment in bass. They made collections on the Sunday which I spent there, towards a new chapel at the village of Ouds- horn. The contributions were of course quite voluntary. And they did the thing generously. They seemed so pleased with the effort in the morning, that they begged it might
MEETING ON THE CONVICT QUESTION. 37
be renewed in the afternoon ; and they came prepared the second time, and contributed altogether about ten pounds. They promise to raise about £100 per annum, as an Auxi- liary, towards the Missionary Society. They acknowledge they can do it if they try, and that they ought to make the effort. There is much in having a willing mind.
On the Monday morning a public meeting was held in relation to the Convict question, which the people suffi- ciently understood. They wished to express their desire that the convicts of England should not be sent to the Cape. They agreed to a memorial to that effect to the Government; though few could write, nearly 500 signed with the faithful sign of the cross.
On leaving the village, many came to say farewell, — wishing me a " safe journey," expressing the hope "that God would take me back safely ;" " compliments to all their friends," and "a thousand compliments to my wife and family." Amidst all this, one could not help the reflection, how effectually Christianity softens, refines, and elevates ! What a blessing is it in social life, transforming the selfish into generous, the harsh into kind, the proud into humble, and the revengeful into pacific and forgiving ! Domestic life is sanctified, and its charms augmented ; manners become bland and courteous ; the very countenance bright- ens with intelligence ; order prevails over lawlessness, and industry succeeds to idleness and vice. The lands smile, deserts blossom as the rose, and the wilderness rejoices with joy and singing. "The heavens hear the earth, the earth hears the corn and wine and oil, and they hear Jezreel."
And then, that new place of worship at Ouclshorn shows how much may be effected by the zeal and co-operation of a willing people, although their resources be exceedingly limited. It was found to be desirable to have a chapel in that locality especially, to suit the convenience of many of the people resident there. Mr. Anderson and his friends resolved on attempting it. A slip of land was purchased.
38 MINERAL SPRINGS AT DYSSELSDORP.
Part of it was re-sold, so as to leave just enough for the pur- pose required. The Missionary with his own hands led the way. Example is more impressive and effective than precept and exhortation. Clay was found on the spot, and 78,000 bricks were made. Mr. Anderson devoted three days a week for six weeks to the task, and the people gave their labour. The chapel will be worth £500, inclu- sive of the people's unpaid, but voluntary labour, and it will accommodate 350 hearers. I recommend its being called " Anderson Chapel."
The ground here is impregnated with saltpetre. The roads are often covered with it, in fine white crystals, so that at a little distance one might fancy there had been a fall of snow.
At the village I went into a native house belong- ing to one of Mr. Anderson's congregation. The people had most kindly prepared some provisions. The family library consisted simply of the Bible and a hymn book. There is a sad deficiency through the colony of material for mental improvement in the Dutch language. The people who can read have little besides wiiat I have just named, and the mind remains in too quiescent, if not stagnant a condition.
There are some valuable mineral springs at Dysselsdorp, that may some day, in the future prospects of the colony, render the village as important as Cheltenham or Bath in the mother country. These springs are partly sulphurous and partly chalybeate. They have been of considerable service in many cases of contracted joints, arising from rheumatic fever, by no means unknown in this part of the country. It is a merciful arrangement of Providence that an antidote exists where the disease prevails. The same economy prevails, perhaps, everywhere as to all diseases ; and the principle is found in the moral as well as the phy- sical government of God. There is a remarkable piece of ground in the immediate vicinity of the springs, about half an acre in extent, and two feet in depth. It was for-
THE CANGO CAVEKNS. 39
merly a swamp covered with reeds. These have succes- sively perished and decomposed ; the soil is now saturated and blackened with the gases which proceed from these mineral springs.
At a public meeting of the people which I attended, chiefly in reference to the temporal affairs of the Station, I was struck with some very shrewd remarks made by the natives on the question of labour. They said they had been found fault with, as a body of labourers, that they were deficient in industry, and that Government had instituted an inquiry into the affair, so far as they were concerned. They thought it might be now equally pro- per to inquire into the conduct of masters towards the labourers, for possibly there might be some matters of just complaint against the employers, and that both sides should be heard. Wages, they said, were very low. Far- mers sometimes broke their engagements, and the people found it difficult to obtain redress. They mentioned several cases of hardship. They urged too, that, after all the charges brought against them, it was some proof of their industry, that all the agricultural work in the colony was performed by them, the labourers of the coloured class, inasmuch as the farmers themselves never put their hands even to a spade.
Before quitting this part of the colony, I was glad to embrace the opportunity of paying a visit to the famous Cango Caverns, in the district of George, of which accounts have been published by Thompson and other travellers. They are said, by those who have seen the Caves of Elora and Elephanta, to be far superior to them, both in extent and grandeur. They are wholly natural, and are among the stupendous wonders of creation.
The road along which we had to proceed forms the "Poort," or "Pass" of the river Grobbelaar ; it is a gorge, or defile, between two ranges of lofty and precipitous moun- tains. The river winds most coquettishly along the bottom; now gentle, placid, and inviting, then abruptly
40 THE CAN GO CAVERNS.
dashing aside, frowning, threatening, and concealing its course amidst the dense umbrage of the jungle. In rainy seasons, when the torrents are immensely swollen, the stream becomes dangerous and impassable. At the time of my visit it was most obligingly shallow, seldom exceed- ing two feet in depth. With due caution we crossed it, without difficulty or accident. But from its extremely serpentine course, we had to cross it thirty times. The scenery is magnificent. The convulsions have been fear- ful. Many of the rocks are thrown up perpendicularly. Many are broken into wild and awful forms. They are for the most part covered with vegetation. Along the course we took, the principal trees are mimosas, with their long and sharp thorns ; where an equestrian, with a closely- buttoned leather jacket, has far less danger of interrup- tion and laceration than one clad in the flowing costume of an oriental. These mimosas are interspersed with thousands of beautiful crimson geraniums, large and splendid plants of palma Christi, and a kind of strong- scented lilac. After proceeding about five miles through the George, we came to an open space, and presently reached the residence of Mr. Botha, a farmer who has lately purchased the property, including the Caverns. It was advanced in the afternoon when we arrived, and the farmer expressed a little reluctance at our going in so late: but as my time was precious, we. pressed it, and having taken a cup of tea. which the hostess soon provided, we mounted our horses, and at a mile's distance came to the entrance of the Caverns, on the side of a lofty limestone mountain. The entrance is vast and imposing, exceed- ingly lofty and spacious, — a porch befitting these subterra- nean and " crystal" palaces. A fire was kindled, and we were provided with long bamboo canes, spiked, not with daggers, but with candles. On entering the caverns, we descended into a dark and gloomy passage, implicitly following our guides, whose lighted candles, however, were all we could distinguish. We were now soon arrested,
THE CANGO CAVERNS. 41
by reaching the brink of a yawning precipice, and "dark- ness visible" beyond it. Down we descended, by means of a ladder placed there for the purpose, and which is drawn up again every time it has been used. With due precau- tion, holding the steps of the ladder with one hand, and our friendly candle with the other, wTe safely reached the lower regions, say thirty feet from the top of the descent ; and we then commenced our subterranean pilgrimage, and proceeded to inspect one spacious apartment after another, all the while filled with awe, wonder, and admiration. Many of the rooms are very lofty — thirty, forty, fifty, sixty feet high. Their extent cannot be seen at one view, nor indeed of any of them, unless, perhaps, an immense num- ber of torches were placed in the room ; even then, I suspect, only the lights would be seen in the distance, and not the objects themselves. Many rooms are filled with millions of stalactites, descending in all forms from the ceiling, and meeting their kindred stalagma on the ground. Many of them retain only the grandeur of their forms : they are vast, magnificent, and exceedingly diversified. Others retain beauty, as well as colossal dimensions, con- sisting of fluted columns, towering to amazing heights, and resembling, at some distance, immense cathedral -organs. In other instances, they stand like primeval trees, such as I have seen in the quarries of Portland. Some of the specimens were of a remarkably white and glittering- character, and some perfectly transparent. Here were niches, columns, cornices, fretted-work roofs in all variety of form and of beauty, far beyond verbal description. The detail would be insufferably tedious, but the impression of it as a whole is most effective. You feel at once trans- ported into a region where you stand amidst the silent work of untold ages, perhaps thousands of ages. You have nothing in nature above ground to compare with it, and nothing of the work of man that can compete with it. The process of crystallization is still going forward, but not in all places. The crystal palace advances, though
12 AVOXTUUK.
without the magic hand of Paxton. The stalactite is still gradually forming in innumerable places ; in others it has ceased, and the slow progress of decay and disintegration is going forward. It seems an established law, that it must live and increase; or else, in becoming quiescent and stationary, it decays. The exterior becomes first moist and clammy, then the crystals are destroyed ; the adhesion ceases, and they crumble to powder. One room, called the "Sand-room," is strewn with fine sand — I presume, the decayed crystals of decomposed stalactites. Part of this is beautifully white, and part beautifiilly red ; the colour of the latter occasioned, no doubt, by the presence of iron, which may be found in the vicinity of the limestone rock, through which the water had oozed, carrying an oxide in solution with the lime.
We left the caverns at five o'clock, and returned to the farmer's residence, where we again found a cup of tea refreshing; and in about an hour and a half we had supper with the family, and shortly after retired to rest ; the ultra sober hour of seven o'clock in the evening being the usual time when the family separate for the night's repose. The good woman of the house told me she had had twenty-two children, eight of whom were still living. Her mother had had twenty-three. The population of the colony is rather sparse, but at this rate of increase, will not very long remain so. We returned to Dysselsdorp next day, and I then started for our next Missionary Station at Avontuur, in the Long Kloof.
Having sent my wagon forward from Dysselsdorp, by spans of oxen kindly lent by the people there, Mr. Ander- son conveyed me in a horse-car to Avontuur (Adventure), still in the district of George. The distance is about seventy-five miles. We travelled along the Kamanassie Hoogte, or "heights." The descent to the stream of that name is steep and difficult, and the opposite ascent of the same character.
The Mission Station of Avontuur, under the care of
NEW CHAPEL AT AVONTUUK. 43
Rev. W. Hood, has many encouraging features. It com- menced " as a day of small things." Mr. Hood's first con- gregation amounted to six persons. That was on a week- day evening. On the Sunday there was a larger attend- ance. A Dutch farmer in the neighbourhood offered Mr. Hood the use of a dwelling-house, with land for grazing cattle and raising corn sufficient for the use of his family, if he would settle there as the Missionary. He did so, and there are now both good congregations and useful schools. The Missionary Society has no land here of its own, nor do the people hold any by grant from the Government. The farmer already referred to offered portions of land, on easy terms, to the people. Many native families accepted the offer, and are now residents, and in circumstances of comparative comfort. None of them were here when Mr. Hood arrived. They have felt induced to settle in the locality by the advantages afforded them, by the easy terms on which they occupy the land, and by the religious privileges placed within their reach. The plan deserves to be imitated by others. It is politic, as well as benevolent. It has brought labour within reach of the farmer, when he needs it, and it has suited the wants of the people. Part of the dwelling-house has hitherto served as a chapel; but a more commodious and sub- stantial place is now in course of erection. The people build it at their own cost. Its dimensions are fifty-five feet by twenty-five, and it is constructed of stone to the lintels of the doors, and the rest of brick, made of the clay found on the spot. With a front gallery for children, it will accommodate about four hundred. The people come in for worship on the Sunday from several miles' distance. About seven hundred altogether thus fall under the in- fluence of the Missionary, who, possessing also some knowledge of medicine, becomes their physician amidst their bodily ailments, as well as their spiritual pastor, hav- ing the " cure of souls." It is desirable that all Missionaries for Africa should be competent to exercise the medical art.
44 GENOTE, THE KAFFIR.
The Sunday which I spent at this station I shall long remember. The attendance was good ; the interest and attention of the people very gratifying. Besides morn- ing and evening services, Ave held a Missionary meeting in the afternoon, and gave the people details of the pro- gress of the gospel in various parts of the world, to which they listened with cordiality and benevolence. Thankful, for the advantages which they themselves en- joyed, they were earnestly desirous that the whole family of man might enjoy them too. And this is just what might be expected. The benevolence of Christianity is wonderfully efficacious hi counteracting the natural selfish- ness of the human heart, and expanding its purest and best affections.
There resides at Avontuur a native, a Kaffir of the Gaika tribe, of the name of Genote, whose history illus- trates the value of Missions, and the power of Divine truth. Several years ago he went with some companions. out of sheer curiosity, to see the Missionary, Williams, then of Kaffirland. They had heard of him, but knew not what was meant by the designation. Much to their sur- prise, they found him a human being, but of a different colour, dress, and lano-uao-e to their own. Zwart Boov. as Genote was usually called, remembered much that was said, and could not divest himself of the exhortation "to flee, for there was danger." The Missionary had no doubt- been urging the same truth that John the Baptist did in the wilderness of Judaea : but the Kaffir knew of no dan- ger except that of being wounded or killed in war. He was on the spot when Williams the Missionary sickened and died, and he was employed to cany a letter on the subject to Mr. Hart, of Somerset. Just then there was a prospect of war, and he made up his mind to leave Kaffir- land and enter the colony. He hired himself to a farmer, and was much prized for his fidelity and honesty. He afterwards settled nearer to Avontuur, from which the farmer's residence was separated only by a steep and
GENOTE, THE KAFFIR. 45
rugged mountain. He and the Missionary met occasion- ally. After having been observed at the chapel on a Sunday, a friend brought him in the course of a day or two to Mr. Hood, and said, " Have the kindness to speak to this old man ; he has been restless and sleepless these two nights." On being asked to sit down, and open his mind, he confessed that he felt an impression of danger — danger he could not understand nor describe, and he was distressed; he felt as though he had committed some grave offence, and was about to be punished. "When asked what he thought might be the cause of this uneasiness, " Oh!" said he, "my sins, my sins ! The immensity of my sin makes my heart as heavy as a mountain of lead ! I I have no knowledge, no wisdom. I know not what to do. Tell me, therefore, what to do." The Missionary spoke of God, and found he had a tolerably clear perception of Him as Creator and Preserver; "but," said the man, "I want something more. I cannot be satisfied — I cannot rest. Tell me what it is." The heart thus prepared for the truth, the Missionary unfolded to him the words of life and the wonders of redeeming mercy. The Kaffir told him what a change he had felt in his heart. " Some time since," said he, "a child of mine died; I became frantic, and should have destroyed myself, had I not been re- strained by force. A month ago, another of my children sickened, and I said in my heart, ' The great God who gave him to me, has a right to take him from me ; let him do his pleasure.' I loved my child ; it wras a hard struggle, but I gave him back to God. When the child was dying, my friends came in to weep and to lament with me. I put them out of the room, for I thought I should lament too, and then wish to hold him back ; and how could I, after I had resigned him to God ? My child died, and I was still and silent. Now, who could have made me feel so," asked the Kaffir, " but the great God ? What can I do to serve him?" He listened with breathless anxiety while the Missionary explained to him the grace of the Saviour.
46 GENOTE, THE KAFFIE.
He partly compreliended the matter ; light was breaking in. " Tell me again,'' said he. "for I am old and stupid." His eves were fixed: tears streamed down his sable cheeks ; and his tall and noble figure trembled with men- tal agitation ; and as soon as he could find utterance for words, he expressed his astonishment at the mercy and condescension of God. These interviews were repeated, and at length he expressed the wish to come and live on the spot. He endeavoured to arrange this with some of the people : but as he had some cattle, there was difficulty in the way, the land which they occupied being already as full as the pasturage would permit. Naming this to Mr: Hood, he said, " I am a Kaffir, and I am fond of my cattle ; but I '11 get rid of the last of them, if I cannot otherwise come to reside here to hear the word."* As the Missionary was needing a shepherd, he proposed to him to come and tend the herd, and that he might graze his cattle with them ; and he should have a monthly payment for his services. Genote was silent a few minutes, and then said, " That is not your plan ; it is," said he, pointing upwards, "it is He who has put it into your heart." He accordingly arranged to come and to bring his wife and little stock of moveable property. The fanner with whom he lived was unwilling to part with him. "What possesses you?" said the fanner; "you are not far from the chmch — you can go there as often as you like. I never hinder you." " True," said the man, "but the mountain on the road is steep, and I am old and weak. Besides, you count all the days I am absent, and deduct them from my wages." " But why should you go so often? I do not," replied the farmer. "Ay," said the Kaffir, "but you have a great Bible lying in the window, which I hope you read every day. I cannot read, so that all I obtain must come in at the ear, and I must live near the man that can tell me
* "The kingdom of heaven is like a man who, when he hath found one pearl of great price, goeth and selleth all that he hath, that he may obtain possession of it."
KRUIS FONTEIN AND HANKEY. 47
every day." "But why not, then, do as we do?" said the farmer. " We in\ite the minister to one of our places, and then we meet together to hear." "I'm afraid," said the poor man, "little good comes of that; besides, we have no places to invite our minister to, and you know you would not give him your place ; and so, I mean to go !"
And go he did ; and came to Avontuur, and resides there still ; conducts himself in a truly exemplary man- ner, and lives in the good-will and confidence of all around him. He has been baptized, is a member of the church, is earnest in prayer, and diligently exhorts others to seek the peace which he has obtained through faith on the Son of God.
Genote often prays in public ; he did so the Sunday I was there. He began in Dutch, but as his heart warmed, he gradually and naturally fell into the Kaffir, with which he was more familiar, and the people felt that there was the earnestness of devout supplication and thanksgiving, even though they (familiar only with Dutch) could but im- perfectly comprehend all the words he employed.
The wife of Genote, now generally called Samuel, the name he chose on his baptism, is a sister of Makomo, of whom so much has occurred in the late conflicts between the Colony and the Kaffirs. Her long absence from her own country is making her forgetful of her native lan- guage, and yet, most inconveniently, she has great diffi- culty in acquiring the Dutch, and still more in getting the English, which is but occasionally used there. Avery fatal confusion of languages in her case, certainly !
I next proceeded to " Kruis Fontein" — Cross Fountain — and Hankey. The former is a Missionary out- station to the latter. The property was purchased by the late Wil- liams, Missionary in Kaffirland, to form a native village for Hottentots, the emancipated classes and others, who might be willing to pay a small rental sufficient to cover the in- terest of the purchase, and who might then receive instruc- tion and religious services. The Missionary Society now
48 KEITS FOXTEIX AND HAXKEY.
holds the property, and the Station itself enjoys consider- able prosperity. The people who attended service while I was there, had an air of comfort, intelligence, and inde- pendence about them, that pleased me much. There is a plain building that serves for a chapel, and accommodates about 250 people. Another building is used for an infant school, in which about thirty-five children attend. Mr. Clarke, formerly fellow-labourer with Mr. Kolbe, among the Bushmen, resides here as School-master and Assistant- Missionary. He has spent many years in Africa. Rev. T. D. Philip acts as pastor, and comes over from Hankey to visit the people and administer the ordinances of reli- gion once a month.
This Station further illustrates, to my mind, the im- portance of encouraging the natives to become landholders in some form, even on a small scale. They feel them- selves more independent, and it awakens their industry to maintain then position ; and with an interest in the soil, they will be neither vagrants nor rebels.
j Rom-
,1
■f ;■'*■■■- : ^
CHAPTEE III.
A NATIVE MINISTRY EUROPEAN AID REQUISITE HANKEY INSTITUTION,
INUNDATION MACHPELAH AFFECTING ANECDOTE TUNNEL
CHART FERTILITY, A THOUSANDFOLD NATIVE CAPACITIES EDU- CATION MAPS WANTED PUBLIC MEETING NEW CHAPEL, CHURCH- MEMBERS AND RULES OF CHURCH-FELLOWSHIP PORT ELIZABETH
FINGOES — BETHELSDORP— SALT PAN THOMAS PRINGLE — NATIVE
RACES FEARS AND HOPES CONTRIBUTIONS UITENHAGE TEA
PARTY— THEOPOLIS SUFFERINGS FROM WAR, 1847 GRAHAM'S
TOWN, CHAPELS HOTTENTOT CORP OF CAPE MOUNTED RIFLES
CANTEENS.
The great desideratum in all Christian Missions, next to the conversion of men to the Christian faith itself, is the ■preparation of a Native Ministry. By that means alone can the great command of the Saviour be literally obeyed, " to preach the gospel to every creature." Foreign Mis- sionaries can never be sustained by the churches from whence they are sent forth, in adequate numbers to ac- complish the purpose. They might, indeed, make the tour of heathen countries, and just "announce" in all the prin- cipal towns, and perhaps the villages too, of heathendom, " the glad tidings of great joy." But this would be a mea- sure most cursory, most superficial, and most unsatisfac- tory. The history of Providence does not justify the hope that any great good should accrue from such a scheme ; it is not in the nature of the case that any could reasonably be anticipated. There needs the reiterated exposition of Divine truth — " the line upon line, and precept upon
i,
50 A NATIVE MINISTRY.
precept." There needs the stated and continuous employ- ment of wisely- adapted means, in the same localities ; and, usually, it is even then only after a considerable period has elapsed that attention is aroused, inquiry awakened, prejudices neutralized, and the great change accomplished in which old things pass away and all things become new.
To provide this permanent agency for the ministry of the gospel throughout the world, is the object of the most anxious solicitude, on the part of all the intelligent friends and supporters of Christian Missions. They seek to gather, in the first instance, converts into the fold of Christ, and then from those converts to select and train men who shall be competent "to teach others also." The history of Christian Missions for the past fifty years demonstrates the wisdorn and necessity of the measure ; its wisdom, because where tried it is found effectual ; its necessity, because the existing pecuniary contributions of foreign churches do not accomplish very much beyond that of sustaining their present European agency, and that is not advancing to any great extent, or in any rapid man- ner, on the remaining regions of heathenism.
The employment of native agency is coeval with the history of Christianity. The apostles gave instruction as to the ordination of men to be the ministers in the several states and towns which they had visited, and where they had planted Christianity. Corinth had its own "teachers," "helps, and workers of miracles:" from among the Thessa- lonians "sounded out the word of the Lord through Mace- donia andAchaia;" and the seven churches of Asia had respectively their own presiding ministers.
Modern Missionary Societies have all proceeded on the same principle, to some extent. They have successfully employed native teachers and evangelists in a subordinate capacity ; and in a few instances they have been ordained as pastors of native Christian communities. And this is the consummation to be kept in view. Every measure up to that point must be regarded as only subsidiary and
EUROPEAN AID NECESSARY. 51
preparatory. The most efficient and successful Missionary, therefore, is not the man who may have his three hundred, five hundred, or a thousand converts around him as a flourishing Christian community, but the man who, from amidst his converts can find and train "men for the work of the ministry and the edifying of the body of Christ."
These native churches and pastors may still require the aid and counsel of the more experienced and better- instructed European Missionary; and whatever arrange- ments, are made for providing native churches with native ministers, the foreign aid found requisite for their stability and progress must for the time be furnished. That, how ever, merely leaves the question of their entire inde- pendence to be a question of time. The principle itself is fairly involved. There may be an excess of cautious soli- citude in preparing native churches for this measure. We must stand prepared for some defects, irregularities, and failures in the system ; but to postpone the adoption of it till there is almost a demonstration that it will work without any danger, is to expect a result without the pre- vious process : it is equivalent to expecting men to be proficient in an art without ever exercising it — a Eaphael, without having touched a pencil.
Impressed with views of this nature, the London Mis- sionary Society has for a long time directed its attention to Theological Seminaries, and has established them in British India, China, the South Sea Islands, and Africa. The Institution at Hankey has been arranged for the same purpose, and it is confidently hoped it may render essen- tial service. Its locality is favourable. Its advantages are many, and the Missionaries stationed there are eminently qualified for the office of instructors. As yet, not many natives have availed themselves of these advantages. A few have, and also the sons of Missionaries in the colony — a class from which the Society has engaged the services of some valuable and efficient men. The present un- settled state of the colony, owing to the new Kaffir War, is
52 HANKEY. — INUNDATION.
altogether unfavourable to these objects. The attention is diverted to other things. Bad passions are awakened ; families are scattered ; young men of promise are drawn off for a militia — evil communications corrupt their man- ners ; and a scene that might have bloomed like Eden, is smitten, withered, and ruined.
Hankey is about eighteen miles from Kruis Fontein, and it is then sixty-live miles further to Port Elizabeth. The road is difficult, but the scenery, which is pleasing, begins to improve soon after leaving Kruis Fontein ; and for some miles before reaching the lands of the Institu- tion at Hankey, there is much to gratify. On the right, at the distance of twenty or twenty-five miles, may be seen the white sandy beach near St. Francis Bay, and on the left the Kouga Hills, a spur of a great line of mountains running east and west of this part of South Africa. The " Cock's Comb."" seen on the road to Hankey, is about six or seven thousand feet high, and is one of the highest points in the range. The lands of the Institution, as we advance towards the village, are rich in botany. The low lands are alluvial, and the soil is rich, and is covered with various kinds of bushes, with the graceful mimosas, splen- did proteas and euphorbias, geraniums, aloes, Cape olives, &c.
The spot where the desolating inundation of October, 1847. occurred, is marked by its deposit of white sand, over which, however, vegetation is beginning to appear. On the higher ground, to which the waters did not ascend, may be seen the new village rising, and the Mission pre- mises, which stood there previously, constituting the most prominent object. There is a cheerfulness about the whole scene. The neatly-built and whitewashed cottages exhibit indications of advancing civilization, comfort, and prosperity. The chapel stands on a summit opposite to the eminence on which the Mission-house is built, and a small stream. — " Klein Paver,"' — with its rustic bridge, runs between the two elevations. The view from the Mission
MACHPELAU. 53
premises is extensive, bold, rich, and varied. The gardens of the people cannot be made contiguous to their cottages, which are built on high ground, but they are laid out in a suitable spot, at a moderate distance ; and even in the dry season they look well. There is a knoll at a short dis- tance from the Mission premises, and which is well wooded. It has some splendid specimens of the yellow- wood tree — a species of yew. It is appropriated as a burial-place for the deceased members of the Institution. The ashes of Mrs. Philip, and her son, the Kev. William Philip, and her grandchild, son of John Fairbairn, Esq., repose calmly there. It is the " Machpelah " of Dr. Philips' family, and shall give forth its tenants, on the morning of the resurrection, arrayed in beauty and im- mortality.
Limestone is found on the lands of the Institution. There is a kiln belonging to a native, and I found him busily pursuing his occupation — and no mean sight, — a Hottentot preparing lime for the lands of the farmers. His wagon stood by, on which he had brought the stone from the quarry : he and another man were breaking it into small lumps, feeding the kiln, and heaping on the wood. The farmers purchase the lime as manure, and the man maintains his family in comfort.
I accompanied the Pvev. T. D. Philip to see the " tunnel," for the repairs of which, after the inundation, an appeal was made to friends in England in April, 1848. That inundation was. occasioned by the fall of heavy torrents of rain, about a week previously, in the neighbourhood of the sources of the " Gamtoos," and by which it became sud- denly and fearfully enlarged. At Hankey, it rose from thirty to forty feet above its ordinary level. It proved fatal to thirteen of the people,* and destroyed much pro-
* An affecting account of these circumstances was published in the "Missionary Chronicle" of April, 1848. A Christian Hottentot who escaped, relates that he and fifteen others (six women and ten men), perceiving their danger, rushed to a spot of rising ground, and
54 AFFECTING ANECDOTE.
perty. Great injury was done to the tunnel. A vast mass of the superincumbent rock fell in, having been under- mined by the swollen river. The face of the rock was left bare some sixty or eighty feet. About 5000 cubic yards of matter fell in. • The people, however, did not despond. Aided by prompt and liberal contributions, they began the necessary repairs, and within a year and a day of the calamity they were completed, and the tunnel re -opened.
The accompanying Chart of Hankey will convey an
there " stood speechless, looking at one another ; the water rose above their waists. Lucas," said he, " never spoke another word, but I never allowed my heart to fail me. I bound up a mat for my wife, and told her to keep it across her chest, and she would be able to keep her head above water till help came. I then took up my mother, and held her in my arms till I could hold her no longer. She was the first carried away. Then Lucas drifted from us, and sunk at once. My wife had drifted away while I was holding my mother up, and she got the mat under one arm instead of across her chest, so that she was turned over and over with it, till she was carried out of my sight among the thorn-trees. The boy, Carl Baan, went to the three Smits, from one to another, now holding his mother up as he saw her sinking, then his little sister, till they all sunk. I saw a roof floating towards me, and resolved to try to reach it ; I did — Sarah and Carl Baan were folio whig not far off. I drew a lath out of the roof, Carl grasped it, and I drew him up on the roof. Sarah called out ' Help me, dear uncle !' She was just sinking a second time, when I placed the lath so that she seized it with her finger and thumb, and I pulled her also on the roof.
" At this time, Lydia, old Lucas's wife, was floating on a mat, about thirty yards from me. She now commenced singing the hymn, 6 Jezus neemt de zondaars aan/ (' Jesus receiveth sinners.') And when she had sung it through, exclaiming, 'O great God!' she laid her head down upon the mat, as upon a pillow, and sunk.
" The time passed by very heavily, but in the evening I heard, in answer to one of our cries, ' Yes, help is now on the way to you.' I thought, as I sat upon the roof, of Xoah in the Ark, but felt it was not because I was a righteous man like Xoah, that God had saved me. I wondered why I had been saved, and others, better than my- self, allowed to perish. I wept with excitement at my deliverance."
TUNNEL CHART.
55
J.
r
\
mmi
I
f%
accurate idea of the extent of the inundation, and the position of Hankey in re- lation to the Klein and Gam- to os rivers.
The tunnel is a large exca- vation through a rock of con- glomerate, of an exceedingly hard and solid texture. It is about two hun- dred and sixty yards in length, and. from three to six feet in width. The
height is about five or six feet nearly all through, though in a few places it does not ex- ceed four. The opening into the tunnel on
The dark portion of the Chart indicates the space on which the flood extended, and the figures chiefly denote the various buildings which were either surrounded or overthrown by the accumulated waters. Fig. 1 marks the position of the Mission-house. 2. The Chapel. 3, 4, 5, 6. Houses of the people. 8. The tunnel. 9. Fingoe and Hottentot huts. 10. The spot where the sixteen persons already mentioned stood for several hours, and of whom three o'nly were finally saved.
56 FERTILITY. A THOUSANDFOLD.
the side of the river is within a few feet of the main current. The Gamtoos is a river of considerable mag- nitude, and winds between the hills in the vicinity of the Institution. It has a sufficient fall to admit of the irrigation of the lands at Hankey to a large ex- tent, simply by means of this tunnel, and then still further by carrying the water, by a suspended aqueduct, over a lower part in the bend of the river itself. There is a fall of above forty feet from the place where the tunnel leads the water out. to the spot where it again falls into the stream. Some strong stone and brick breastworks are being made at the mouth of the tunnel, to prevent its being washed away in case of the recurrence of a flood ; and for a considerable depth the tunnel itself is now arched over, by strong timbers that do not decay in water. The upper portion of the rock consists of an immense layer of hard and fine-grained sandstone, out of which blocks are taken and rolled down the hill to form the breastwork at its base, around the sides of the entrance to the tunnel.
From the comparative level of the river and the tunnel, there would seem to be little difficulty in leading out. as Mr. W. Philip, who designed the work, remarked, the whole of the river, so as to irrigate a very large piece of the country.
The bed of the river is now comparatively small, but the appearance of the country indicates that there must once have been a large river spreading over the whole valley, and reaching from these hills on the one side to those on the other. This intermediate valley consists of an ex- tremely rich alluvial deposit. The earth brings forth abundantly — it gives seed to the sower and bread to the eater. The hand of the industrious is made rich. I have been informed that some portions of the land in this neighbourhood have yielded not merely thirtyfold, sixty- fold, or a hundredfold, but so high as a thousandfold. Of course, manure is neither used nor required.
I found the thermometer here in June, in the shade, 32 deg. in the morning, 66 deg. at eleven o'clock, and 92 deg. at one o'clock.
NATIVE CAPACITIES. 57
With regard to education, I find the remark correct, that these people learn readily while young. Their capa- cities are developed early, and they make fair progress according to the means of instruction employed, and the pains which they can be induced to take. But they do not proceed very far. There is little ultimate development beyond the early stages. Mind then seems to become stagnant, and, unless a powerful stimulant from without is applied, no farther progress is made, or even attempted. It may be, that, in progress of time, as one generation gains something in advance of the preceding, and comes more under the influence of the Gospel and religious institu- tions, they may advance much more than they do at present.
One thing is very clear, that, excepting as they now come under the influence of religion, there is but little of mental effort or mental improvement. The fear of the Lord is literally, in a very important sense, the beginning of wisdom : it teaches men the value of mind and of mental effort — it strengthens and elevates the powers of thinking — it brings the greatest subjects home to the mind and heart — and it secures that self-command and self-respect which are so essential to intellectual improvement. Would that the friends of knowledge and education in England would aid more abundantly in the prosecution of this great work ! I often grieved when I looked at the bare walls of these schools ! How very limited is the provision. of the means of improvement ! How few and trifling the ostensible inducements to effort ! — a Card with A B C, a few spelling- books, and some copies of the New Testament ! These are about all the apparatus in most of the schools. Some have a map, and some, perhaps, two ; as here at Hankey, the Map of Palestine and the Map of Europe, but that is all ! not a picture on science or natural history of any kind. The Missionary Society cannot be blamed for not providing these materials. Their funds are not equal to these objects: but I feel sure that there are wealthy
58 NEW CHAPEL.
friends in Great Britain who would help, if they knew the need that exists for their assistance.
We held a Missionary Meeting one evening during mv yisit. About two hundred and fifty persons sat down to tea. It was well conducted, and all seemed happy in the enjoyment of the evening, We had several English pieces sung, and I may add, well sung. Many of the natives here have excellent voices. There is much harmony, — a quick perception of the beauty of tune, but not much practical idea of time. Mr. Philip, himself a good singer, and acquainted with the science of singing, is dohig much to improve the congregational psalmody. Several of the men spoke at the meeting with much ease and good sense. I had, as usual, urged on them to contribute more towards supporting their own ministry and schools. They ad- mitted the force of all this, and expressed then desire to relieve the Society of pecuniary outlays so far as they could. But they pleaded, and with much truth, the losses which they had sustained by the calamitous inundation — the necessity of rebuilding their houses — their want of grazing-ground for the cattle. — and the large amount they have to pay to neighbouring farmers, on whose grounds their cattle trespass, and by whom they are impounded. We referred to the design and desirableness of building a new chapel. It seemed to me scarcely worth while to expend much money in repairing or enlarging the present un- sightly chapel. It would be much better to make an effort to build a new one. and keep the old place for a school- room. Bricks could be made on the spot, and lime obtained on the Institution. Timber is within easy reach; and thus the expense of a new chapel would not be very formidable.— say £300 for a place 75 ft. by 28ft, or to 30ft.
In the course of a day or two, the overseers of the village met, and talked over with us the subject of the new chapel, addition to then grazing-grounds, the rental of an adjoining farm, the charge to be made for the right of graz- ing their oxen ; and the result seemed to be, that efforts
CHURCH-FELLOWSHIP. 59
should be forthwith made to obtain a new chapel. The people will provide the bricks, about 150,000, and worth 12s. per 1000, amounting in value to £90 or £100. I pro- posed that the Society should allow them to apply to the object the year's Auxiliary amount of subscriptions, and make them a contribution by way of practical encourage- ment. There are upwards of one hundred members in church-fellowship, and many are in the class of inquirers, affording ground to hope that they are the subjects of genuine religion. The people are usually all fond of reli- gious ordinances. In fact, there is some danger of their placing religion itself in a mere attendance on the forms of worship, substituting outward decorum for spiritual devotion. Hence their anxiety to be received as members of the church, perhaps in too early a stage of their reli- gious thoughts and impressions. It has been remarked, that the difficulty of a faithful and judicious pastor of a Missionary Church, consists rather in restraining the peo- ple from joining the church at too early a stage of their religious profession, than in gathering large and im- posing numbers to the visible fold. The opposite plan of admitting all persons on reaching maturity, and who can repeat certain formularies, is adopted in the Dutch Reformed and Lutheran Churches in the colony. The inherent evils of this system are sufficiently obvious. Men are tempted to consider themselves " Christians" in virtue of this visible connexion with the church. In the absence even of those indications of the spiritual life which the Scriptures of the New Testament invariably exhibit as pre-requisites to church-fellowship — namely, "repentance towards God and faith in our Lord Jesus Christ" — men are apt to regard themselves, merely by a decent and orderly attendance on the ordinances of religion, as among the favoured and covenanted people of God. This state of things renders it the more essential that churches of a more scriptural character and discipline should be sus- tained and encouraged, as witnesses for spiritual Chris-
60 POET ELIZABETH.
tianity. and that their rules for the admission of members, although apparently stringent, should not be relaxed for the sake of the eclat that might attend the report of larger numbers. The real strength of a living church consists not in the quantity, but the quality of its materials. The gold, the silver, and the precious stones will last, and endure the "trial by fire." when the wood and hay and stubble shall be utterly consumed.
On leaving Hankey, I proceeded to Bethelsdorp. Much of the scenery in the neighbourhood is exceedingly beauti- ful, and admits comparison in some places with that of Kaffir! and in its glens and wooded hills. I had sent for- ward my wagon the previous evening. I intended it to have gone forward earlier in the day ; but when the oxen were wanted, they had strayed, and could not be found. This is a difficulty and annoyance of no unusual occurrence, wherever, for the sake of grazing, the cattle are left to roam over lands that cannot easily or without great ex- pense be enclosed. Mr. Durant Philip and myself rode from Hankey — about twenty-five miles — on horseback, then overtook the wagon ; and, aided by three relays of oxen kindly provided for our convenience, we managed to reach Bethelsdorp. without discomfort, before midnight; being the longest journey I made in Africa in one day — namely, sixty miles.
Mrs. Kitchingman, widow of our late valuable Mission- ary, Rev. John Eatchingman, and part of her family, were waiting to welcome us. Tea was refreshing — fitting beverage for an African traveller — and then a night's repose delightful.
In the course of the next day I proceeded to Port Eli- zabeth. The distance is only nine miles. The road fur- nishes little to interest the traveller. The geology in the neighbourhood of the bay is silurian. A coarse kind of slate may be seen cropping out. Near the beach is grey- wacke. Oolite is said to be in the neighbourhood of Zon- dag*s River, and blue lias, rich in fossils, at no great dis-
PORT ELIZABETH. 61
tance. The Maitland Lead and Copper Mines are about twenty miles distant, the ore of which is reported by some to be equal to that of the Burra Mines in South Australia. There is a simple Monument on this hill, which rises above the town, raised by Sir Kufane Donkin, to the memory of his departed wife, Lady Elizabeth Donkin. On a tablet facing the sea is the brief inscription: —
TO THE MEMORY OF THE MOST PERFECT
OF HUMAN BEINGS, WHO GAVE HER NAME TO THE TOWN BELOW.
Port Elizabeth is a rising and important town. It stands on the margin of Algoa Bay. The Bay is not without its disadvantages for shipping. The south-east wind creates a tremendous surf, and cuts off communica- tion between the vessels and the beach. It is a roadstead, and wants good anchorage and greater facilities for load- ing and unloading. European enterprise and perseverance will ultimately overcome its difficulties, and reward the patient toil of the colonist. The population has consider- ably increased during the" last twelve years, chiefly by immigrants from England and Scotland. Port Elizabeth is acquiring the appearance of an English town, but could not well be mistaken for a town in England. Its newly- built houses and shops remind one of the mother countiy, but instantly the wagons, with their long spans of enyoked oxen — twelve, fourteen, sixteen to a team, — the smacking of enormous whips — the hard-working but miserably- clothed Fingoes in the streets, and grim-visaged Aborigines from other parts of the colony, remind the traveller that he is yet in South Africa. There are excellent mercantile stores. There is a vigorous and intelligent press, and much public spirit. A tower is being added to the En- glish church, that will greatly improve its appearance. The Wesleyan chapel is a neat and modest building.
62 FINGOE HUTS.
The Independent chapel makes no pretensions to archi- tectural beauty ; but a new chapel is in course of erection that will do honour to the taste and liberality of the Non- conformist body.
For this latter object I found that plans and estimates were being obtained. The outlay was expected to be about £-2000. Half the amount was already raised, and the whole, I have no doubt, will shortly be forthcoming. The parties identified with this movement have hitherto attended the ministry of Rev. A. Eobson, who has minis- tered also in the Dutch language to the coloured popula- tion. Far too large an amount of service has thus been thrown on Mr. Eobson. It will be a great advantage to all to have this additional place of worship, with its own minister, sustained by local efforts, and Mr. Robson left at liberty to continue and even increase his efficient services on behalf of the coloured people, who have sometimes been in danger of thinking themselves a little "overlooked in the ministrations," from the demands made on the Missionary by the English congregation.
Port Elizabeth is an important station for the London Missionary Society, as the most direct point of communi- cation with its stations on the frontier and beyond the boundaries.
In company with Mr. Passmore, I called at some of the Fingoe houses or huts in the native village, on the hill, and where about three hundred of them reside. Several of the huts presented an appearance of comfort far beyond my expectations. In structure they are all hemispherical. At a little distance they resemble immense bee-hives. The principal one was about twenty- seven feet in diameter. They admit of division inside, by matting. A window-tax could not well be imposed there, for of windows there are none. The doors seem intended for a race of dwarfs, rather than of giants. They seldom exceed three or four feet in height. The floor is hard and clean. The Governor has wished them to build " square houses." The
CANTEENS. 63
superiority of a square to a circle is not self-manifest, at any rate, to the Fingoe, while the difficulty of obtaining materials for houses of a different description is constantly felt. Probably, if their huts are sufficiently large, kept clean, and decently partitioned, they answer the purposes of a migratory people as well as houses of a European character. Few of the people contemplate remaining long on the spot. They are a grazing people, and all of them naturally anxious to possess cattle; but as sufficient pas- turage cannot be found in the neighbourhood of the Bay, they retire to some other part of the colony, or j>roceed further into the interior, as soon as they have converted their wages into small flocks and herds. Many of the Fingoes retain their avowed heathenism, and do not attend the religious services of the Missionaries or colonists. The huts, dress, and appearance of these are invariably inferior to their fellow-countrymen who come under the influence of Christian instruction. The moral character of the Fingoes at the Bay has undergone a very serious deterioration during the last two years, principally through the increased facilities afforded them of obtaining ardent spirits. The number of licensed "canteens" has been con- siderably augmented, and these profit by the ample wages of these new victims of intoxication. Formerly they hoarded, with miserly care, their hard-earned wages. A large portion of these wages is now expended' in the canteen, and the result is fatal to their improvement. Many of them, it has been remarked, are sinking into a lower state of men- tal degradation than belonged to them while living in the benighted interior.
Not a few, however, of the Fingoes still conduct them- selves with great propriety, and are at once decent and useful members of society. They are desirous of instruc- tion, attend public worship, and observe the Sabbath. About twenty-five or thirty of them have become members of the Christian church under the care of Bev. A. Bobson, and conduct themselves as consistently with a Christian
64 HISTORY OF THE FINGOES.
profession, as other bodies of Christians. " Some who were grasping, selfish, and avaricious, now contribute liberally towards the cause of religion ; and some, in the immediate prospect of death, have, through humble faith in the Redeemer, satisfactorily given a reason of the hope that was in them."
The Fingoe congregation in connexion with our Society at the Bay, contributed towards its funds, during the year 1850, £24 :2s. '2d. ; and it deserves to be recorded, that when a Kaffir newspaper was started lately (by the Wes- leyans), no less than seventeen Fingoes at the Bay became subscribers to it, and evinced much interest in it ! Such men are surely worth an effort to civilize and Christianize them : and the effort is not fruitless.
With regard to the history of these Fingoes, it may be remarked that they are the remnants of various tribes, which were routed and destroyed by those great South African marauders and Zoolu despots, Chaka and Dingaan. They obtained permission from the late Hintza, the Kaffir chief, to locate themselves within his territory, where they found employment as herdsmen. They acquired con- siderable property in cattle. Many of them suffered much from the Kaffirs, and ultimately they came out of Kaffir- land by the consent of Hintza, and were admitted within the colony by permission of the Governor, his Excellency Sir Benjamin D 'Urban. About 15,000 thus came within the colonial limits. Many of these are settled in the new dis- trict of Victoria, and constitute a portion of the native tribes under the control and direction of Mr. Calderwood, Civil Commissioner at Alice. The native tribes within his jurisdiction amount to about 50,000, exclusive of the independent Kaffirs. Great numbers of them also settled in the district of the Zitzikamma, by permission of the Colonial Government. It is reported that they had 10,000 head of cattle with them on passing through Uiten- hage to the district just mentioned. The pasturage there did not suit the cattle ; and then flocks for the most part perished.
SALT-PAN. 65
A Moravian Station lias been opened there for their benefit, called, in honour of the well-known advocate of the abolition of slavery, " Clarkson."
From Port Elizabeth I returned to Bethelsdorp. It would be unnecessary here to repeat the history at length of the Institution at Bethelsdorp, which has now existed for fifty years, and has been so frequently placed before the British public. It may be sufficient to remark, that the land was originally obtained for its use from the Dutch Government of the colony, when under General Jansens, on the application of that eminent man, and talented and indefatigable, though somewhat eccentric Missionary, Dr. Vanderkemp. The congregation amounts to about three hundred, and the members of the church to one hun- dred. There is an infant school of sixty children, taught by Miss Kitchingman, and a day-school, having the same number of scholars, under the care of the Missionary, Rev. Joseph Kitchingman.
On the lands of the Institution there is a Salt-pan of considerable extent and value. It is situated about two miles from the village, and has formed a principal source of income to the people. They could not have subsisted on the lands of the Institution. These are poor and insufficiently watered. They are fit neither for much grazing nor agriculture. The stream which passes through them is adequate only for domestic uses. " Good mea- sure, running over," has never been the character of the grants made by the Government in favour of these people. The Salt-pan has been of service to them. It is nearly two miles in length, and about four in circumference. The salt forms a crust or deposit on the soil, under the water, about a quarter or half an inch in thickness. This is scraped together in heaps, and carefully washed from impurities, in water found on the spot. It is then taken to the margin of the lake and placed in heaps, where it is sold to farmers for manure, or conveyed to Port Elizabeth, where it is both used for home consumption and exporta-
66 THOMAS PRINGLE.
tion. At the time of my visit, about 10,000 bushels had been produced and disposed of within the past five months, and about 4000 bushels were ready for sale. The salt belongs to the people generally, — that is to say, to any of them who go to work at the pan and collect it. Its price was Is. Qd. per muid (containing four measures of a foot square each). The amount sold within the time men- tioned has therefore brought in £400. About forty fami- lies have been thus employed, realizing £10 each. About the same may be expected again by the expiration of the year. There is not much profit in this. The time. and labour consumed in obtaining it, and then the expense of carriage by ox wagons to the Bay, absorb all the gain. If the people were provident, or could be induced to keep the salt in store for a time, they might often realize double and treble the price. As it is, they overstock the market, and then obtain prices which do not remunerate them.
There are about thirty or forty good, substantial houses, built of brick or stone, in the village of Bethelsdorp, and most of them are neatly whitewashed. Several have windows, and contain a moderate supply of furniture; They are clean and comfortable. The aloe-trees (of me- dicine) abound here, and have produced a considerable revenue to the people. It is said they now require to be left standing a year or so untouched, — having been cut and drained, and exhausted of their virtue rather too copiously and unintermittingly. A fresh stock should be planted, so as to secure crops in succession. I recommended Mr. Kitchingman to have two or three of the more intelligent natives associated with him, and to form a " Committee of Improvement," which should consult on all matters affect- ing the general interest and prosperity of the Station. Limestone is also found on the estate, and might be burnt and sold among the fanners as a source of profit. There are also some indications of coal in the neighbourhood.
In the year 18-20, Thomas Pringle, the poet, visited Bethelsdorp. He has given, in his admirable "Narrative of
NATIYE EACES. 67
a Eesidence in South Africa," the following graphic descrip- tion of his visit : — " I attended the evening service of the Missionary in the rustic chapel. The demeanour of the audience was attentive and devout, and their singing of the Missionary hymns singularly pleasing and harmonious. I saw before me the remnant of an aboriginal race to whom this remote region, now occupied by white colonists, had at no distant period belonged. As I sat and listened to the soft and touching melody of the female voices, or gazed on the earnest, upturned swarthy countenances of the aged men, who had probably spent their early days in the wild freedom of nomadic life, and worn out their mid- dle life in the service of the colonists, it was pleasing to think, that here, and in a few other institutions such as this, the Christian humanity of Europe had done some- thing to alleviate European oppression, by opening Asy- lums where, at least, a fete of the race were enabled to escape from personal thraldom, and to emerge from heathen darkness into the glorious light and liberty of the Gospel."
Many of my impressions, while I was among them, were similar to those expressed in this quotation.
But with all that I found satisfactory and encouraging, there was still wanting the earnestness that presses on to " perfection." The natives seem to me to rest satisfied with doing just something, but leaving off far too soon. The block is hewn from the quarry, but the statue is not finished. They would lay the foundation of a pyramid, but never reach the apex. This is, perhaps, the natural tendency of the Hottentot mind, but it has given a colour- ing to everything around them. Institutions, teachers, and Missionaries, are in danger of being infected by it. Here, at Bethelsdorp, is a good chapel, but no flooring. The people have floored their school-room, but the chapel remains cold, damp, and cheerless. These little things are significant. They indicate character. There is a radical evil, and it lies in the constitutional defect and timidity of the Hottentot. Physically, also, they are not a strong and vigor-
68 FEARS FOP, THE NATIVE RACES.
ous race. Many of them labour under some disease of the chest. They are extremely susceptible of colds and coughs ; they complain of "pain in the side," and die of consumption
It is impossible to conceal one's fears for the ultimate existence of most of the coloured races in South Africa ; I mean those, in the first instance, within the colony, and those in the neighbourhood of places where the emigrant Boers have lately settled. The lands of the native tribes become gradually encroached on ; jealousies and animosi- ties, wars and retaliations, arise : the native tribes are driven back, lose their property, their lands, their courage ; they fall back on other tribes, where they encounter more or less resistance, become weaker and weaker, and the white man advances, and absorbs the whole !
The only means of averting the evil, — and surely it is an evil that might be averted, — seems to be, the elevation of the people by instruction, combined with such an equitable treatment of them as may convince them that we are their friends, and not their enemies, and thus, instead of being disposed to employ their newly acquired knowledge against us, in defending ther rights as against aggression, they may be induced to cultivate our friendship, seek our pro- tection, imitate our Institutions, and learn our religion.
The juvenile native population now under our instruc- tion should be ivell and carefully trained, so as to render them a respectable and intelligent portion of the com- munity. And the natives should be encouraged to become independent landowners, especially where they have char- acter and energy to profit by such advantages.
Having expressed these sentiments, this may be the proper place to add, that my firm conviction is, if our relations with these coloured tribes were only conducted on the broad and honourable principles of Christianity, there would be little to apprehend as to any fatal collision between the white and coloured races. There is not a line in revelation to justify the assumption that the coloured races are doomed to perish in presence of the white races,
great Britain's duty." 69
and to make room for them. It is utterly incompatible with the benevolent ordinations of Providence, so far as they are known, to suppose that any such dire necessity exists. Those men proceed from the same original stock of the human family as ourselves, and are made of " one blood." Ten thousand instances can be adduced of their capability of receiving instruction and civilization. There wants only the noble and generous determination to do them no wrong in our treatment of them and our dealings with them. Our superior knowledge should not un- worthily be employed in taking any unfair advantage of them, but righteously employed in devising the means of their welfare in conjunction with our own. This were a noble service for Great Britain to attempt ! It may involve difficult problems ; but Great Britain has lofty minds that can solve difficult problems, and noble hearts that can aid in the solution of great questions, where a nation's honour, a nation's morality, and a nation's Christianity are all in- volved.
"With regard to this Institution of ours at Bethelsdorp, it is but candid to say, that for some time past affairs had not been in the most satisfactory state. All this could be accounted for : the disturbances created by the Kaffir War of 1846-47, had proved injurious, and the declining health and debility of the late Missionary had partially disquali- fied him for the active efforts wanted. No additions had been lately made to the Church. The congregation had remained stationary. Happily, indeed, no cases of flagrant immorality had occurred, nor any cases requiring the exercise of church discipline ; but still, the general state of tilings indicated declension, lifelessness, and decay. I endeavoured to revive what I found faint and languid. That was the object of my address to the members of the Church, at the Lord's table, on the Sunday. I delivered also an address in English, on the Monday evening, in the school-room, where upwards of one hundred persons, chiefly from the age of sixteen to twenty-five, attended,
TO FEARS AND HOPES.
and who, I think, understood English sufficiently to com- prehend my address. Next day a public meeting was held, and well attended. All the men belonging to the Institution were present. I distinctly stated the claims which the Society had on them for more liberal contribu- tions. I urged the fact that, after forty-five to fifty years' labour among them, and a vast expenditure of resources during that period, they had not. strictly speaking, con- tributed anything towards the diffusion of the Gospel among the heathen tribes ; for though their Auxiliary had sometimes raised as much as £100 per annum, a much larger sum than that had always been expended by the Society on Bethelsdorp : their contributions, therefore, had, in effect, come back among themselves. I adverted to their greatly improved condition, as compared with former times, their present means of support, and the circumstances of comfort in which they were placed, by means of their oxen, wagons, salt-pan. and supply of aloes. I urged on them the necessity of improving the appear- ance of the place, the houses, gardens, farms, &c; these being the things that would strike the attention of the traveller, and official men in the colony, and which gave, in fact, a character to the inhabitants themselves. Several of the men spoke in reply, and with good effect. They acquitted themselves well. They expressed themselves with intelligence, force, and feeling. I had put the ques- tion to them as preliminary to all our proceedings, whe- ther, in their judgment, Bethelsdorp ought any longer to be retained as an Institution, or whether the time had not come, when the lands might in some way be given back to the Government. I wished them to state then- own thoughts and wishes on this subject. To this point, therefore, they directed their responses with great energy, strongly deprecating the idea of Bethelsdorp being relin- quished, and earnestly requesting that it might be re- tained. Three resolutions were then passed ; one, of thankfulness to the Society for its exertions during so many
CONTEIBUTIONS. 71
years on their behalf, and, above all, to God, who had raised up such a Society ; a second, of earnest desire that the Institution might be maintained; and a third, of promise to aid it by enlarged contributions.
A paper was then filled with their names as contributors. They came forward and promised what they would give during the year. Many promised £2; others, £1 10s.; others, £1; and others, smaller sums. Mr. Kitchingman assured me, that he had no doubt nearly all these would fulfil their promises, and that they had the means of doing so. The sum total promised at the morning meeting amounted to about £90 ; a few others still intended put- ting down their names, and the aggregate might be con- sidered as £100. This would be exclusive of their usual monthly and annual collections.
Another meeting of the people was held during my visit, in relation to some of the secular arrangements of the Institution. There is what is termed the " Algemeene Werk" — a public service, such as keeping roads, fences, &c, in repair. Usually, the people have all given Monday, through the year, to these objects. This is equivalent to a cost of £240 a year, estimating the day's work at Is. 6d., and allowing for only sixty men on the Institution. This has occasioned great loss, many heart-burnings, and un- necessary altercations. It is now proposed that the people tax themselves, as at Hankey, and pay out of the sum raised for the actual work done. This seems to be a plan at once more economical and more equitable. The pay- ment of a third of the sum now sacrificed, say sixpence per week, or £1 6s. during the year, would accomplish the object, and save to every man time for labour equal in value to £2 12s. per annum — a far larger amount than they now contribute to the parent Society.
Other important matters were brought under review, such as hiring part of a farm in the vicinity of Bethelsdorp, for grazing their cattle, and an attempt to obtain a better supply of water for the Institution, by means of boring.
72 UITENHAGE TEA PARTY.
These and other points gravely affecting the welfare and advancement of the people will continue to share the attention of the Missionary who is now settled over them, with fair prospects of usefulness and comfort, and who is within reach of the judicious counsels of Dr. Philip at Hankey, with Messrs. D. Philip and J. Christie.
In the course of the next week (18th July) I left Bethels- dorp. The Rev. T. J. Paterson, Missionary at Uitenhage, had set out with two friends to meet me on my way thither. I accompanied them to Uitenhage, the principal town of the district of that name, eleven miles from Bethelsdorp. The situation of the place is admirable. It is a fertile spot, on the old red-sandstone formation, and well watered. The streets are wide, and at right angles with each other. Here are many excellent houses — some in the Dutch, and others in the English style. Small rivulets run down some of the streets on both sides, and keep the gardens well watered, and the trees fresh and nourishing. Among these are oaks, willows, oranges, peaches, and firs. I observed also the banana and almond. The whole aspect of the place is pleasing and reviving. The town occupies a large space, the houses being almost all detached, and all having gardens. There is a good church, stone-built, belonging to the Dutch Reformed Congregation, and of which Mr. Smith has been minister for more than twenty-five years ; — an excellent man and indefatigable minister. The popu- lation is about five thousand, and consists half of white people, and half of coloured, including Fingoes, Bassutos, Hottentots, and mixed races.
On reaching the town (2 o'clock p. m.), I found the friends of the congregation of the London Missionary Society all busy with preparations for a soiree that even- ing, and which was intended as a mark of the esteem and respect they were desirous of showing me, as the de- putation from the Society. Accordingly, at 6 o'clock, we met. About 400 sat down to tea. The Piev. Mr. Smith, of the Dutch Church, took the chair. Mr. Hall, Wesleyan
PUBLIC MEETING.
73
minister, was with us, and Mr. Kitchingman, from Bethels- dorp. The body of the chapel was occupied with a cross table, very neatly and tastefully ornamented with flowers, and amply supplied with oranges and cakes ; two immense chandeliers occupied the centre of the tables, gaily adorned with flowers. The singers occupied the galleries. After tea we had several addresses, and after each, a hymn, or some other piece of sacred composition, was sung; and, excepting that the voices were rather too powerful, the execution was excellent, under the guidance of Mr. Jones. In the course of the evening, oranges and cake were handed round, and later in the evening, coffee. The com- pany broke up about 10 o'clock — all delighted, I think, with the Christian spirit that had pervaded the meeting, and the animated appearance and kindly character of the whole scene. The assembly consisted almost exclusively of persons of colour ; but all were comfortably and even respectably dressed in European clothing. All the arrange- ments were well conducted, and I was gratified on learning that the whole had been managed by the people them- selves. They paid one shilling each for tickets of admis- sion, and devoted the surplus, after paying cost of provisions, &c, to the general funds connected with the congregation. They hold, annually, a similar meeting, usually about Christmas, in commemoration of the abolition of slavery, in which condition most of those present had been born, and out of which they had been, through British justice and benevolence, happily rescued. And how well they deserved emancipation, and how amply they have profited by their advantages in their new condition, the scene of social comfort, intelligence, order, and religion which I witnessed that evening, afforded me many and cheering illustrations, and made me wish, that everywhere, in both hemispheres, man were as free and as happy.
Next evening, we held a public meeting of the congrega- tion. This gave me the desired opportunity of stating more fully and explicitly the objects of my visit, and the
74 THEOPOLIS.
views and wishes of the parent Society in reference to their making additional efforts towards the support of their own ministry and institutions. Considering the circumstances of the people, that they are all of the labouring classes, with limited means of support, they have hitherto con- tributed liberally towards the funds of the Society, — say about £90 per annum. These Auxiliary contributions are, however, usually expended on local objects, such as repairs of Mission premises, chapels, schools, &c.
The next Station which I had to visit was Theopolis, and my route thither led me again through Bethelsdorp.
Accompanied by Rev. T. J. Paterson, and seven of his people, I set out on horseback, and remained about an hour at Bethelsdorp. My wagon had been sent forward in the morning. Mr. Kitchingman and myself overtook it in the course of the afternoon, and " outspanned" for the night at " Commandos Kraal." Next day, we reached Long Bush, a Missionary out-station connected with the services of Mr. Smith, of Graham's Town, and where Mr. Smith had come forward to meet me. The people here are chiefly wood-cutters, and deserve, as I think, encourag- ing treatment at the hands of the Government, as a sober, industrious, and intelligent people. They might form a village and a thriving community. They have built a small chapel on the spot, and we held service there next morning. From hence, Mr. Smith returned to Graham's Town, Mr. Kitchingman to Bethelsdorp, and I proceeded to Theopolis. The actual distance is not more than eighty miles, but the journey is fatiguing. It has occupied five days, and that too with the advantage of a frequent change of oxen, supplied by the Bethelsdorp people, the Long Bush people, and two spans from Theopolis. The scenery for the first two or three days was extremely uninteresting : the ground we passed over consisted mainly of sandstone. The last two days have presented some very agreeable scenery — some fine kloofs, valleys, and defiles, well wooded and well watered. The descents to the rivers have been
THEOPOLTS. 75
rather troublesome. We crossed the Zondag River after the Zwartkops, the Bushman River — often difficult and dangerous — and then the Kasouga. The latter river, which runs close by the Institution, is there a very small stream.
The village looked well at a little distance, and more especially as, in honour of my visit, the people had white- washed the exterior of their houses and the public build- ings, the chapel, schools, and the Missionaries' houses. There had been a long drought, and, consequently, neither fields nor gardens indicated much cultivation. Some showers were now falling, and ploughing had commenced. I observed, on my journey, the old Dutch plough still in use, with its ten or twelve oxen ! Occasion- ally, the American plough is used, and is becoming more extensively demanded. This is worked with three or four oxen. The Dutch are very jealous of changes.
On the Sunday which I spent at Theopolis, the congrega- tions were good. The chapel holds about four hundred, and was nearly filled. The appearance of the people is that of great poverty, or of great negligence. I presume a share of both exists. The people, however, have but few means of procuring a livelihood. Their only market is Graham's Town, thirty miles distant. They cannot convey a load of produce there at a cost of much less than 20s. They manufacture, from the timber on the Institution, axles, fellies, spokes, &c. They fell and sell timber, and make charcoal. There is no lime on the estate. They cannot grow much, for want of a better supply of water. There is no artificial irrigation, nor any means of obtaining it. All those who had cattle suffered severely by the losses sus- tained in the late Kaffir War. The aged Missionary, Mr. Sass (since deceased), lost all the few oxen he had, in both the last wars.
I am not aware of any sufficient reason why Theopolis might not be as important and effective an Institution now as it formerly was. The natural capabilities, though few, remain the same ; and I should think that a devoted and
76 SUFFERINGS FROil WAR, 1847.
effective Missionary there would be as successful in raising the Institution as in former times.
At present it is placed under the vigilant superintendence of our Missionary, Rev. N. H. Smith, of Graham's Town, who pays it regular periodical visits. The people have promised to raise £'50 per annum towards the expenses incurred by the Society. There is a congregation of about two hundred people. About one hundred and forty children attend the day and infant schools, and there are fifty members on the Church books.
Theopolis was in imminent danger during the Kaffir War of 1 846-47. The Missionary who was there at the time, Rev. R. B. Taylor, now at Cradock, has given a graphic description of the circumstances, in the following terms : —
" The first attack on Theopolis, by the Kaffirs, took place on Mon- day night, April 26th. Humours of their being hi the neighbourhood had reached us some days previously. They had made a furious attack, on the 25th, on the camp formed at the residence of Air. McLuckie, a farmer a few miles distant. The house being built of' stone, they made no material impression on it, but swept off the whole of the cattle, amounting, it was said, to upwards of 1600. A little before sunset I observed three or four Kaffirs dodging about on the height west of the village, evidently making observations. These were pointed out to the commandant, Plaatje Bezuidenhout. He immediately set the watch, fully expecting an attack to be made that night. The women and children were placed, for greater secu- rity, some in the chapel, some hi the infant school-house, and the rest in my dwelling-house. Within two hours after sunset an at- tack was made. It continued till about midnight, when they retired.
"At six o'clock next morning a patrool started as usual, and at about half-past nine sharp firing was heard behind a hill, in front of the village. It was evident that our patrool was engaged. All the able-bodied men proceeded to the spot whence the roll of musketry came ; the aged and weakly posted themselves as guards on the rising ground above and around the village. The firing became ter- rific, and lasted till ten o'clock p. m. It soon after entirely ceased. An intense and painful solicitude was felt to know the result. A full hour elapsed ere anything occurred to relieve the suspense. At last a compact column was perceived moA'ing over and descending the crown of the hill, which had concealed the combatants from view.
SUFFERINGS FROM WAR, 1847. 77
The inquiry now arose — ' But who are they ?' By the aid of a tele- scope I could distinguish them, and I then told the anxious group about me, ' They are men with clothes on.' This instantly gave relief. ' Then they are our people,' instantly burst from every mouth ; and soon we had the happiness to find that, although they had been op- posed to upwards of one hundred foot and a dozen horsemen — double their own number — there was not only no one missing of our people, but not one wounded. Of the Kaffirs, eleven poor creatures had been shot, and many wounded. The Kaffirs, however, came down upon us again about eight in the evening, and continued fight- ing till nearly day-dawn next morning. None of our people were injured ; but, from traces of blood on the ground, it was supposed several of the enemy had been wounded.
"Xext night they attacked the camp of Dell, within three miles of the village, so that we had rest for that night from fighting, though not from anxiety and watching. Thursday they again came upon us, but from a different quarter, and were again beaten off. They renewed the attack at night, and this proved the most terrific and the most disastrous of all. The night was truly dreadful: through the treachery of some Kaffir women, to whom, as people in distress, we had a few days previously given refuge, our cattle kraal was opened in three several places, and the whole of the cattle driven out. The greater part were recaptured, but the Kaffirs got off with about three hundred and fifty head. ' Two of our people, Fingoes, were severely wounded, one with an assagai, the other with a bullet, of which wounds, a day or two afterwards, both died. One of these was a Christian — a man whom I had hoped would in a short time become very useful as a Catechist. The almost incessant fighting had ex- pended nearly the whole of the ammunition. All communication with Graham's Town, the only place whence it could be obtained, was cut off. The Kaffirs were in force all around us, and flushed with their success. Nothing, in the usual course of things, offered, that could prevent the full execution of a threat put forth by the enemy at the beginning — ' to take all the cattle, then kill all the men, destroy the buildings, and take the women for themselves.' This was pre- eminently our time of need. Prayer, that had not ceased to be offered from the commencement, now became the only hope of the pious.
" "While hastily putting together necessary articles, in preparation for a proposed attempt to force our way through to Graham's Town, we received intelligence of the arrival of Colonel Somerset, with his division, in our immediate neighbourhood. A company of the Cape Corps was given as a guard for the night. Sabbath morning, the Colonel came to give us notice that it was his intention to remove all
78 GBAHAM'S TOWN.
European families from the district, in order to his being able to de- vote bis undivided attention to tbe expulsion of tbe numerous bands of Kaffirs which had got into it. In pressing this point, he was kind but decided. He regretted the necessity of the measure, but the strength of the enemy and the weakness of the force at his command rendered its adoption imperative ; and next morning, before day- break, wagons came from the Colonel, with a strong escort, and orders for our immediate removal. By Tuesday night we were all safe in Graham's Town."
The people of Theopolis kindly provided me with the loan of two teams of oxen, to assist me in reaching Graham's Town, thirty-five miles distant. The first span proceeded as far as Brak Paver, and the second brought me to the foot of the hill adjoining the town. There the Rev. W. C. Thompson met me, and with him I proceeded on horseback the rest of the j ourney, leaving the wagon to follow next morning. This is a long and wearisome part of the excursion ; the ascent of the hill is fatiguing, and presents as miserable a piece of road as ever panted for the skill of McAdam. It was nearly ten o'clock at night before I reached the hospitable residence of H. Eutherfoord, Esq., who had kindly sent forward a note to renew his friendly invitation, with that of Mrs. Eutherfoord, that during my stay in Graham's Town his house should he my domicile. I recur to my visit there with grateful interest, and could only wish every Christian family to be as well regulated as I found theirs to be, — that every Missionary had as cordial a welcome and cheering attentions from some Gaius as I received — and that every merchant of every town in the world possessed as honourable a character in society as the gentleman of whom I speak.
Graham's Town, the chief town of Albany, and the me- tropolis of the eastern division of the colony, has little beauty and no antiquity to boast of.
Its importance may be dated from the arrival of a body of settlers in 1820. The district was formerly called the Zuurveld (Sour Field). The native Kaffirs were ex- pelled by force of arms. The town is situated on a low
CHAPELS. 79
piece of country, surrounded by sandstone hills, whose aspect at present is cheerless and uninviting. No trees adorn the hills, but they are not without grass, heaths, and bushes. The kloofs or ravines have some large timber, and exhibit some rich scenery. The township is large. It is said to occupy almost as much space as Cape Town, though having at present not more than one-sixth of the inhabitants, — say 5000 or 6000. The streets are bold and spacious. In some of them there are rows of oak-trees facing the houses, and occasionally the handsome Kaffir Boom (Erythrina). The shops do not make any emulous appear- ance, but they seem well stored within, and an active, enterprising spirit pervades the community. During the last year or two, losses from bankruptcy have been very great. During the Kaffir War, the influx of money was exceedingly great, and lands were purchased at enormous prices. A reaction has taken place; land has fallen in value, and parties are worth much less than they were. But a revival of trade is anticipated, and if peace be preserved, there is little fear but that prosperity may be secured. War may be profitable to a few, but is fatal to the prosperity of the many.
The Wesleyans form the principal religious denomina- tion in the place. They and the Independent body constitute, by far, the most influential section of the com- munity. The former have a good chapel, which is well attended. They are also building a new and very spacious place, ninety feet by fifty feet, at a cost of about £5000 or £6000. The Independents have an excellent chapel, of which the Bev. W. T. Thompson (late Missionary at Philippolis) is the minister, whose predecessor was the Bev. Mr. Locke, a man greatly beloved, and eminently successful.
The Baptists have also a chapel in the town, but at present its affairs are in an unsettled state. Mr. Hay, their minister, has felt it his duty to retire from the chapel, the principal part of the members of the church and congregation seceding with him, and leaving the
80 HOTTENTOT CORPS OF CAPE MOUNTED RIFLES.
building in the hands of the minority. The London Missionary Society has also a chapel, where Mr. Smith ministers to a large coloured congregation. But a much larger place is needful. Then present chapel might have been sold lately at a large price, and a more spacious place obtained with the proceeds, but some delay occurred in obtaining from Cape Town the transfer deeds, on which alone the sale could be effected. An effort must yet be made to raise a subscription, and secure a Building Fund, so that ultimately the people may enjoy a place of worship capable of accommodating, say 800 persons.
During my stay in Graham's Town. I had a long con- versation with Colonel, now General Somerset, who holds a high and influential position here, and who is recognised as a staunch friend of the coloured people, and of their legitimate claims and rights. The colony is much in- debted to him for his prompt and vigorous service during the late war. It is thought by many that his promptness saved the colony — his movements were so rapid and suc- cessful. He has a high opinion of the steadiness and gallantly of his men. He commands the Cape Mounted Rifles. They are Hottentots. He highly appreciates their docile character; but he deems it most essential that they should be under constant and effective superintendence. Well trained and managed, they conduct themselves with excellent order and propriety ; but neglected, and placed in the midst of temptation, they are too feeble to main- tain their position. They have not, the Colonel thinks, any large amount of moral power. He alluded particularly to the snare of intoxication. He assured me that for eighteen months, during the war, and while having the command of from 3500 to 5000 men, he had no cases of insubordination — no cases requiring punishment — which he attributed to the fact of there being no "canteens" within reach, and no brandy or any ardent spirits being- permitted to be introduced among his men. Now, indeed, within the colony, and within the town, he finds it impos-
CANTEENS. 81
sible to prevent the evil. So many canteens are licensed, that the men have easy access to them, and the vice of intoxication has become common. He has now sometimes one hundred cases of discipline in the course of a day, from this source alone, and is obliged to submit to the evil of having a " canteen" within his barracks, as a less evil than that of allowing his soldiers to absent themselves in quest of the " grog-shops" in the town. The Colonel's testimony goes far to prove, that the system of so exten- sively granting licenses for the sale of ardent spirits, is fast ruining the labouring population of the colony. It aids the revenue, but destroys the men — their character, their self-respect, then morals, and their health.
There is a native village at a short distance from the town, where several Hottentots reside, and at a short dis- tance, some Fingoes. I called on some of the former. The occupants are intelligent men — industrious, sober, and deserving of encouragement. But they are anxious, na- turally anxious, as to their position. They have been encouraged to build, with the promise of having the lands measured out and secured to them. This was a promise made by the late Mr. West, subsequently Governor of Natal, while residing as Commissioner at Graham's. Town. On the faith of that promise they have built, but have not yet obtained the promised security. They fear to go on with their improvements, and others also are afraid to commence. This ought not to be : the people should be dealt with fairly, kindly, and paternally; and every pro- mise made to them by the Government should be strictly fulfilled.
I owe it to the spontaneous and kindly feeling of the friends in Graham's Town, to add, that they did me the honour of holding a public tea-meeting, to which they invited me, and which was very numerously and respect- ably attended, by members of all the Christian denomina- tions in the town, and gentlemen of the highest standing in the community. It gave me a favourable impression of
G
82 TEA-MEETING.
the social character of the people, and afforded me the opportunity, not only of hearing the sentiments of those who spoke in the course of the evening, but of giving ex- pression to my own, on the responsibility of British colo- nists and Christians to the coloured and aboriginal races.
CHAPTER IV.
NOTICES OF THE COUNTRY DISTRICT OF VICTORIA NEUTRAL TERRITORY
MAKOMO BRITISH KAFFRARIA FORT BEAUFORT UMXELO FIN-
G0ES ATTACK ON FORT BEAUFORT, DEATH OF HERMANUS DIFFI- CULTIES OF MISSIONARIES MESSRS. READ BIRKLANDS AMATOLA
MOUNTAINS MR. CALDERWOOD " ALICE" " LOVEDALE" MISSIONS
IN KAFF1RLAND TO BE PROSECUTED CHUMIE MOUNTAINS BURN's
HILL LOSS OF COMMISSARIAT— HOTTENTOT COURAGE KAFFIR
CHARACTER "KNAPP's HOPE" IRRIGATION AGRICULTURE SUPER.-
SEDING WAR LIMITED LOCATIONS WAR BREAKS OUT KING WIL-
LIAM'S TOWN COMPANIONS MR. BROWNLEe's LOSSES, NO COM- PENSATION CONGREGATION, DESIRE OF IMPROVEMENT COLONEL
MACKINNON MOUNT COKE STATE OF KAFFIRLAND HOPES SUS- PICIONS JAN TZATZOE MR. ROSS, PERIE MR. BIRT's STATION
YOUNG MEN'S CLASS AGRICULTURAL EFFORTS CLASS OF NATIVE
WOMEN — HELP FROM ENGLAND.
My steps were now directed towards British Kaffraria, commonly called Kaffirland, and to the Kat Eiver Settle- ment. I looked forward to both with great interest; to the former, as containing an immense body of aborigines, brought into close contact with the colonists, the effect of which remained to be seen; and to the latter, as the largest existing experiment in South Africa of an attempt to elevate an aboriginal race — the Hottentots.
I had to proceed, in the first instance, from Graham's Town to Fort Beaufort, afterwards to Alice and King William's Town. These are the three principal towns and seats of government, respectively in the district of Beaufort, the division of Victoria, and British Kaffraria.
84 NEUTRAL TEEKITOEY MAKOMO.
It may be of service to introduce here some brief notice of the part of the country now falling under observation.
The district of Beaufort, and the division of Victoria, be- longed a few years ago to the Gaika tribe of the Kaffirs, and were occupied by them. Up to 1812, the Great Fish River was the eastern boundary of the colony ; and, in fact, for seven years longer we put in no claim to the country beyond that river, although the colony had some misunderstandings with the Kaffirs there. In 1819, war broke out; and at its close, we arranged with Gaika, our ally, and some of the chiefs whom he had conquered, that neither Kaffirs nor colonists should occupy the land between the said Fish River and the Keiskamma. That land we then designated " Neutral Territory." In 1820, Sir Eufane Donkin annexed it to Albany, a colonial dis- trict, and called it in his proclamation " Newly-acquired Territory." But in 1823, Lord Charles Somerset withdrew that proclamation, and again made the Fish River the boundary beyond wrhich the colonists were not to advance. Many Kaffirs were, however, allowed to settle on this piece of country, and they no doubt anticipated its ultimate restoration to them. This state of things continued up to 1829, though two years previously the Kaffirs were ordered to retire across the river. It was in the middle part of 1829, that Makomo, a Kaffir chief, a son of Gaika, was forcibly expelled: he was at that time occupying "Balfour," on the western side of the Kat River; he was driven with his people across that river, under pretence of punishing him for an attack on the Tambookies. His cattle were seized, and his kraal set on fire : he was thus expelled from the part of the country which we now include in what is designated Beaufort, and forced into a part of the country now called Victoria, and which at that time we called, to- gether with Beaufort, the Neutral Territory. On the ex- pulsion of Makomo, the Hottentots were located there, in the spot called the "Kat River Settlement," being a section of the district called Beaufort, and including all that fertile
BRITISH IvAFFEARIA. 85
spot which is watered by the various streams that fall from the Winterberg into the Kat Eiver.
The division of Victoria has a sea coast of about thirty- five miles. It lies between the Great Fish Eiver up to the point where Kat Eiver falls into it, and the Keiskamma up to the point where the Chumie falls into it. Its northern part is then continued between the said Kat Eiver and the Chumie up to Makomo's Hill, by the foot of the Chumie Mountains and the Kat Berg to Gaika's Hill. Beyond that, again, it has a detached piece of terri- tory, beyond the Winterberg, bounded by the Zwarte, or Black Kei, and the Klip Plaats Eivers. Here Mr. Shep- stone is Assistant Commissioner for the Tambookie Tribes. Beyond this, and between the Zwarte Kei and the White Kei, is a piece of country over which we claim to exercise authority, sometimes called the Bushman Country, or Ma- door's Country, and here Mr. Joseph Eead has an appoint- ment as Superintendent of native locations in the Bushman Country. Altogether, the natives falling within the Civil Commissionership of Mr. Calderwood may be about fifty thousand.
To the east of Victoria lies " British Kaffraria," with a sea coast of nearly one hundred miles, having on one side the Keiskamma and Chumie, and on the other the Great Kei up to where the Black Kei falls into it. From that junction, also, the Klip Plaats Eiver forms the western boundary of the northern portion of British Kaffraria, clown to Gaika's Hill. The Amatola Mountains are included in this British Kaffraria. It has also, about thirty miles beyond the Keiskamma, the Buffalo Eiver, with its Port of East London, by which port the Governor effects his communi- cations with the colony during the present Kaffir War. The principal town and seat of government in British Kaffraria is King William's Town. Colonel Mackinnon is the commanding officer. Beyond the Kei is Kaffirland, more properly so called, and is occupied by independent tribes of Kaffirs up to Natal. Albert lies on the north and
86 FORT BEAUFORT.
north-east of Victoria, beyond the Stormberg, and its north- ern boundaries meet the Orange River sovereignty.
To proceed with .my route. Fort Beaufort is not more than a clay's ride from Graham's Town. I set out rather late, and reached it only on the second day, having rested at the " Konap" for the night, and halted for a short time in the morning at Leeuw Fontein. Thus far it is a dreary ride over a plain wholly destitute of interest. Afterwards, the scene changes ; hills and mountains come into nearer view, with their fertile valleys and well-wooded ravines. The Rev. J. Gill, of Fort Beaufort, came forward to the Konap, where sve met, and from whence we proceeded together to his residence, crossing the Kat River as we entered the town.
This place was originally what its name (Fort) imports, a military post, and one of a line of posts intended to pro- tect this part of the frontier from Kaffir invasions, while the colonial boundary was the Fish River, The eastern fron- tier of the colony being now the Keiskamma, much in advance of the former line, Fort Beaufort has ceased to be of the importance it was; but it has risen to be a consider- able town, and during the late Kaffir war increased largely. Prior to the war there were many wealthy and nourishing farmers in the neighbourhood, especially sheep farmers, some of whom possessed from two thousand to eight or ten thousand sheep, the wool of which was exported to England. These often expended large sums of money in the town : the market became important — traffic was large, shops and stores were numerous, and the spirit of enterprise active. The war destroyed or arrested all that prosperity: many of the tradesmen failed ; many inhabitants removed from the locality ; buildings had been multiplied too rapidly, and property was incautiously or two eagerly invested, at high prices in land, and men who would be rich at all hazards "pierced themselves through with many sorrows." The aspect of the place is now sombre and discouraging. Hope remains : it is said that things have reached their lowest
UMXELO FINGOES. 87
point in the downward tendency, and that ere long there must be gradual and steady revival, with moderate and continuous prosperity. But all things must be extremely fluctuating and uncertain on a border where peace and war alternate in such rapid succession.
Mr. Gill has two out-stations, Umxelo and Birklands, and an occasional service at the Cowie. I accompanied him on a visit to Umxelo, formerly the residence of Mr. Birt, our Missionary now at Peeltown, and at that time a Kaffir station among the people under the chieftain Botmen. The chapel had been burnt by the Kaffirs during the war, and was afterwards occupied by British troops, and in the remaining walls of which are seen the holes cut out for the discharge of muskets — sad use to make of a sanctuary of peace ! The station had been abandoned for a length of time, but was lately resumed. The locality is now occu- pied by about twelve or fifteen families of Fingoes.
There is a fine stream of water belonging to the location, and included within the boundary-lines of Umxelo, as de- fined by Mr. Calderwood, the Civil Commissioner. It is not intended to permit a larger number of natives to be located there. The present small number is sufficient to occupy the grazing ground. The people have a few sheep and goats, but they are not an agricultural people. We held a short service with them in the afternoon. They are poor, but they were dressed in European clothing, and looked comfortable ; I saAv only one having on the old sheep-skin kaross. We had met several men on the road, wearing simply a blanket across the shoulder. The features of the people are neither inviting nor repulsive. They are large : the eye is good, calm, intelligent, and benevolent; the nose is large, and expanded ; the lips large and thick ; the hair consists of small tufts, resembling that of the Hottentots. The language is a dialect of the Kaffir, and contains the click, and which, in the name of the place, is represented by our letter X, perhaps the nearest sound to it, but yet so remote that no one could guess the true
88 ATTACK ON FORT BEAUFORT.
sound by the character. If beautiful at all, I should say it is inexpressibly beautiful.
Fort Beaufort has been the seat of an attack during the Kaffir War of 1851. In a letter which I received from the Rev. J. Gill, dated 8th January, he states that —
"Early on the morning of the 7th, Hermanus, with some 500 or 600 men, attacked the town sharply. A hurried fire was kept up for about twenty minutes between the Kaffirs and the Fingoes, our alhes, and the enemy began to retreat. About forty Kaffirs were found dead, and six or seven Hottentots. The enemy was pursued to Blink- water and Fuller's Hoek. Many head of cattle, horses, and various articles plundered from the neighbouring farmers, were recovered. It is thought that about a hundred men altogether, including Hermanus
himself, were killed You will suppose that we have
been in much excitement and no little fear. Had Hermanus re- mained true, we should have had little to fear. His baseness, together with the reported intentions of Sandilli to join him in an attack on us, made us feel that our fives were in jeopardy. Most of the houses are now barricaded, and the women and children have been sleeping at the barracks. All the farmers round us for fifty miles have fled. "We have no market and no trade. Many are obliged to enrol under Government in order to obtain a little food. Nearly all our roads at present are closed. There is no bread to be bought. The whole meal or flour in the town will not last more, it is said, than six weeks. Both that and butcher's meat are trebled in price.
" You will be glad to know that all the people from Birklands are here, and most of those from TJmxelo. They meet with me in the English chapel twice on Sundays and two or three times in the week. The chapel is filled, though many of the people are absent attending the cattle. Our day and Sunday-schools are being kept up as well as possible. . . . May God be gracious unto us, and make us meet for our day ! "
Since the above was written, intelligence has been re- ceived that some communications had been opened by the troops under Colonel Mackinnon, and it may be hoped that supplies have been obtained, and additional forces spared, to guarantee the town against another attack.
In consequence of this state of things, the expense of this Mission station will fall more heavily on the funds of the parent Society than had been anticipated, and this
DIFFICULTIES OF MISSIONARIES. 89
much to the regret of the Missionary and the mortification of his friends.
The European portion of Mr. Gill's congregation, though limited in number, had promised to raise, in consideration of the Missionary's English services to them, about half the amount of his salary, and to pay his house-rent. This arrangement would leave the parent Society to meet only such expenses as might be incurred on consideration of Mr. Gill's services among the Kaffirs, Fingoes, and Hot- tentots. But, amidst the serious embarrassments and unexpected difficulties which have arisen, the Missionary will share the sympathy and support of the Society. Neither will this be an unique case. All our Mission stations in the vicinity of Kaffirland will suffer, and, in fact, all within the colony will be more or less severely affected by this disastrous Kaffir Avar. This is just one of those contingencies which demonstrate the necessity of the Society's funds being kept in a healthy condition.
During my stay at Fort Beaufort, I had the pleasure of receiving a visit from our friends, the Kev. Messrs. Read, senior and junior, and whom I had not seen since their visit to England in 1836, accompanied by Jan Tzatzoe and Andries Stoffels. It was exceedingly pleasant to renew the acquaintance ; to meet a Missionary, after nearly fifty years' labours, in almost undiminished vigour, and the son treading in the father's steps, bearing the heat and the burden of the day without weariness or comj)laint. Arrangements were made for me as to the route I could most advantageously take in proceeding from this locality, through British KafTraria, up to Madoor's Country, and back again to the Kat River Settlement.
Some of the leading people also from Philippolis came to converse with me at Fort Beaufort. They were anxious to obtain the services of Mr. Ptead, junior, as their Mis- sionary, in lieu of Mr. Thompson, who had recently left them to settle over the Congregational Church at Gra- ham's Town.
90 MESSES. READ — BIBKXAXDS.
This plan, however, of dis-locating Mr. Read, junior, from the Kat Biver, could not be accomplished without serious detriment, I knew, indeed, he would be invaluable at Philippolis ; but he was already so, as coadjutor with his venerable father, at Philipton. and therefore other arrange- ments were made for the Griquas. It was anticipated that Mr. Christie, from England, would be with them, and with that they were abundantly satisfied.
On leaving Fort Beaufort, I rode with Mr. Gill to see his out-station at " Birklands," where Mr. Calderwood formerly resided. The location is now occupied by a number of Kaffir families. It occupies a pleasant and gentle eleva- tion, and commands a good view of Fort Beaufort, about two miles and a half distant. The people are building for themselves very decent houses, instead of the round native hut. A chapel is in course of erection, where we held service. I gave a short address, which a young native translated into Kaffir. Mr. Calderwood, who had over- taken us on the road, on his way from Fort Beaufort to Alice, added an exhortation in the native language, in which he appeared perfectly fluent. About one hundred people were present. A cottage is also building here, for Miss Thompson, from the "Glasgow Society," a lady who is laudably devoting her time and energies to the instruc- tion of the people.
We continued our ride, and reached "Alice" the same afternoon. We passed through some highly picturesque scenery. The view of the "Amatola" range is exceedingly beautiful, with " Gaika s Kop" prominently in view, and partially covered with snow. This is the mountain range from which Sir Harry Smith says "the treacherous Kaffirs must be driven for ever, and exterminated! "
In accepting the office under Government of " Civil Commissioner," Mr. Calderwood resigned, of course, his connexion with our Missionary Society. Hence my visit to Alice was not official. But I received from Mr. Calder- wood a most cordial welcome, and remained two or three
"alice" — " loved ale." 91
days under his hospitable roof, with gratification and profit. I found him possessed of the heart and sympathies of the Missionary still. He himself had not sought the civil appointment. It had been urged on his acceptance by men of high standing and religious character. The step was deliberately weighed, and then conscientiously taken. His office is not a sinecure, nor his path always smooth and easy. He has gained the confidence of the Govern- ment, and not sacrificed the esteem of all the good men in the Missionary field.
The town of " Alice" is a rising place, but it has not more than forty or fifty families residing in it. It is situ- ate on the extreme border of the province of Victoria. The Chumie River runs by the town, and separates Vic- toria from British Kaffraria; the Gaga, another stream passing here, falls into the Chumie. The Chumie is crossed by a wooden bridge near Fort Hare. This Fort was intended for fifteen hundred troops ; about two hun- dred only are there now, and a part of the Cape Corps Mounted Rifles, — a Hottentot regiment.
The Free Church of Scotland has a Seminary near here, which I visited with Rev. J. Laing, who has charge of it. It is called "Lovedale," and receives a gratuity of £'100 per annum from the Government. Miss Harding, connected with a society in London,* is also here, for the purpose of instructing the natives. There are not more than some six or seven pupils in the seminary, except a few European youths, who attend for education. The building is large and suitable. There were eighteen pupils before the late war. Mr. Weir attends to the secular department. There is a good piece of land attached to the Institution, granted by the Government for cultivation, say about twenty acres, and ten acres for the use of Mr. Laing. It is well watered. There is a proposal in Alice to bring out the water from a higher part of the Chumie, and irrigate a large piece of country about here, carrying it * " Society for Promoting Female Education in the East."
92 MISSIONS IN KAFFIELAND.
directly through the town. The cost is estimated at £150. There is a small but neat chapel here, in which Mr. Cal- derwood and Mr. "Laing officiate alternately. It is well attended on Sundays.
The rocks in this vicinity consist principally of sand- stone and indurated clays. There are indications of iron- stone. Lime is also found in the neighbourhood, and a bed of blue lias seems to traverse the district, immediately across the Chumie. It contains some fossils; a few only have yet been found. The Basaltic Dykes are vast and splendid between this and Fort Beaufort.
From all the information which I had hitherto been able to gather, my impression became more and more confirmed, that our Society would not be justified in aban- doning Kaffirland as a field of Missionary labour. Some parties with whom I conversed thought there was no rea- son to apprehend any further interruption from an out- break of war, provided cautious measures of defence along the frontier were maintained, and the friendly policy of the Government pursued, and a population located along the borders, whose interests should be identified with the preservation of peace. It was regarded also as an import- ant and favourable circumstance, that the direct authority of the native chiefs over the people was so much reduced that they could not hinder the natives from locating them- selves where they chose. They could come to reside near a Mission station, without endangering their lives, liberty, or property. The Mission stations are under the protection of Government, and the lands occupied granted by the Government. In addition to all this, the Mission- aries urged that they had already toiled long in the field : the fallow ground had been broken up ; the seed of truth had been sown. They awaited and anticipated a harvest. They thought also that, though other Societies were labour- ing for the spiritual welfare of the Kaffirs, our efforts were required also, and that, in fact, an augmentation, and not a diminution of Missionary effort was demanded, " so that
KNAPP'S HOPE BUKN'S HILL. 93
we might not lose the things which we had already wrought." To all this, it might be added, that the Kaffir Missions of our Society were not on a large or expensive scale. In fact, they amount but to three — namely, King William s Town, under Kev. J. Brownlee ; Knapp's Hope, under Kev. F. G. Kayser, aided by his son ; and Peelton, under Kev. R. Birt. Mr. Gill's services, also, at Fort Beaufort, are in part devoted to the Kaffirs.
After weighing, deliberately, all these considerations, although I felt some misgivings as to the permanent tran- quillity of the country, I came to the conclusion that I could not recommend the Directors to withdraw their Missions from this portion of South Africa. Supposing that war were likely to arise, it still became our duty to diffuse as widely as possible the great truths of religious instruction, as the best means of preventing the calamity and of pre- serving peace ; and if, on the other hand, it were probable, as some believe, that peace would continue, then we had the fairest prospect for the uninterrupted prosecution of our work.
I proceeded from Alice to Knapp's Hope, the Mission Station of Rev. F. G. Kayser, so named by him in honour of the eminent Dr. Knapp, of Halle, Saxony, his former tutor. The ride from Alice to this spot is very beautiful. The scenery is magnificent, embracing the Chumie Moun- tains and the Amatola range. I passed on my way, at about six or seven miles' distance, the famous " Burn's Hill," where the disastrous losses of our commissariat occurred, in the Kaffir War of 1846, when sixty-three wagons, loaded with valuable property, splendid dresses, ammunition, medicine, cash, &c, fell, unfortunately, into the hands of the enemy.
It appears that two wagons got fast in the drift of a ravine. The oxen were then taken out of the hinder one, and sent forward by a youth to assist in getting the first wagon clear of the obstruction. A Kaffir came up and led them forward, the lad supposing that he
94 LOSS OF COMMISSABIAT — HOTTENTOT COURAGE.
belonged to the first wagon. One wagon was thus left in the road without oxen, and as there was room for one only to pass at a time, the whole train was impeded. Many Kaffirs had collected in the neighbourhood. They saw their advantage. There were no troops close at hand to protect the property. The Kaffirs rushed on, and began climbing up into the wagons, as the natives describe it, like so many baboons. These they soon plundered, and then set fire to the wagons themselves. The powder-wagons were in the rear. An officer came up and desired the driver to take as many cartridges as they could carry, and then leave the wagons to their fate. This the men refused to do. They said, " No ; if we abandon the powder-wagons, all the ammuni- tion will fall into the hands of the Kaffirs, and we shall be destroyed by the very means they steal from us : we had better die in defending the wagons." They then, by ades-. perate effort, moved off the three ammunition wagons to a little distance. In doing so, one broke, and they removed its contents into the other two. The Kaffirs suspected there was something of great value there, and attacked them accordingly. The Hottentots fought bravely, defending these wagons from eight in the morning till eight at night, by which time assistance was obtained from some of her Majesty's troops and about forty of the Kat River people. The men in charge of the wagons behaved remarkably well on the occasion. To the bravery of some of them was owing the preservation of the ammunition ; but no notice was taken of their meritorious services — nor was any remu- neration given them for the losses they sustained.
This was an immense booty for the Kaffirs, obtained by them with very little effort, and I presume quite beyond their own anticipations. Not only was the escort quite insufficient to protect such a valuable team of wagons, and especially in passing through the country of a most vigilant and crafty enemy, but it is obvious that there had been a foolish contempt of the power and promptness of the enemy, and an equally unwise and overweening conceit of
KNAPP'S HOPE. 95
our own superiority. We are too apt to treat uncivilized men as though they were mere children, capable of being imposed on by gewgaws, pageantry, and splendour. This is a capital mistake. They often possess great shrewdness and common sense ; they have a very keen insight into the motives and real meaning of men who treat with them ; and instead of feeling themselves honoured by the white man's condescension in behaving towards them as childish and inferior races, they regard it very sensitively as an affront. It is at once more just, more complimentary, and more politic, to treat them as men — as rational and intelligent beings. To treat them as such, is one way to induce them to act as such.
On reaching Knapp's Hope, I met with a kind reception from the Missionary family there, and attended public ser- vice that evening. The station is on a very limited scale. The chapel and Mission premises were burnt by the Kaffirs during the war of 1846. The natives affirm that this was not done out of any ill-will towards the Missionaries per- sonally, nor to their instructions, but simply as a measure of self-defence, so that these buildings might not afford defence to the English troops with whom they were